Surfing Is A Crowded, Dangerous Sport Monday Surf & Culture Report


Lost Boys & Co...

So we'll start out with the crowd part of our report today.  Malibu had 200 people in the water, but Morgan had 31 (#1) and they were all better surfers than those vals.  Garrans-ball-berrins!

Meanwhile we had 5 miles visibility under overcast skies and onshore winds kind of added a certain bluster to the mix.  The air was a unsummerlike 65.3º and the water was posted 69.1º, but we're calling it 66-67º.  High tide was at 9:41am +3.6' and low tide will be at 1:44pm +2.7'.  We have a west swell out of 269º at 2.6' and it was a peaky 2' to 3' and there were prizes for the patient...

The dangerous part was Steve (#2) getting clocked in the noggin with the rail of his board.  Took six stitches to close the split, but now he looks cool with a scar and a black-eye to boot...

Timely advice for pets, weird friends and relatives (#3)...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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