Hang Five Wednesday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...
You know how you feel the first time you get a legit noseride, or an in and out tube, or a ride longer than 5 seconds in Hermosa.  In photo #1 you can see JuJu (with the purple Barahona) running out of the water to tell Coach Frank that she had gotten a solid hang five and rode it out!  She works hard and it's paying off!  She'll have a chance to surf against some strong competition in the Kickoff Classic maybe as early as next week!

Cloudy this morning and a few rain drops fell unexpectedly.  Winds were offshore at 2 to 3kts and the sea surface had a light ripple.  The air temperature was 68.0º and the water is 72.7º.  Low tide was at 5:42am +2.6' and high tide was at 12:30pm +5.1'.  SSW swell is back out of 197º at 2.6' and that's about what it was with some racers running down the beach...

Coach Avery commissioned some artwork for his new Sci-Fi model.  Always containing a tribute to his kids, Kalea and Noah, Coach Frank tried to incorporate their silhouettes spinning out of the void.  As he was putting on the final touches, he noticed that his playlist had started playing Hawaiian music which was a chicken skin moment.  Aloha to the Avery's!
🌺🌺 
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!
Uploaded Image Uploaded Image

Popular posts from this blog

The House Always Wins Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... W hat has this man (#1) been smoking?  Or eating?  Well, that looks like a pozole mustache!  It is pozole season and the mustaches are in... V isibility was a cool 20 miles this morning under clear skies.  Winds were light offshore 1 to 5kts and the sea surface is smooth.  The air was a below-brisk 49.9 º and the water is 62.4 º .  Low tide started off the morning at 5:37am +2.1' and high tide was at 11:25am +5.1'.  It's a west swell out of 264 º at 3.0' and it held all the way to the beach (#3) with some corners for the discrete.  Conditions meshed pretty well for some good sessions. panorama, pre-sunrise, (#2) from the lifeguard headquarters to the end of PV.  Some of these winter morning make for spectacular sunrises...  A  ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!
Read more

Wednesday / Thursday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... I t's one of those mornings when the photo (#1) looks better than the actual surf.  Really, it's gray and about 7 miles visibility under that low overcast.  Winds are light offshore 1 to 3kts and the sea surface is smooth.  The air temp was 58.0 º  and the water is 61.9 º  at the buoy, but they're calling it 66 º  on the lifeguard chalkboard.  High tide was at 8:24am +4.0' and low tide follows at 1:42pm +1.1'.  It's a SW swell out of 222 º  at 3.0'.  It's a solid 3'+ but it's smacking the sand with a real snap.  A few more degrees and this would be a good boogie/whomping morning...  T his Saturday is the closing party for the latest VEFA show "Monumental" which showcases the sculptural works of Andy Scott.  6 to 8pm at the gallery on 16th.  On display are sketches, maquettes and a large scale steel equine artwork (#2)... ✠ ...
Read more

Wide Angle Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... E arly GoPro™ experimentation (#1).  Primitive but somehow evocative...  Really, almost art...   T he South Bay has 10miles visibility under a hazy fall sun.  Winds were light and the sea surface is smooth.  The air was 64.0° and the water is a fallish 65.3°, which we all know is the precursor to winter...  Low tide is at 6:05am +2.8' and high tide is at 12:46pm +5.3'.  It's a south swell out of 171° and it might be fun if you were in El Salvador... ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!
Read more