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Showing posts from February, 2015

Lord Of The Flies Friday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... "...life is very short and anxious for those who forget the past, neglect the present, and fear the future."  This lofty sentiment appeared in Seneca the Younger's " On the Shortness of Life ."  This is exactly something you'd expect from someone who was on Caligula's hit list and was exiled to Corsica by Emperor Claudius in 41.  By 49 he was recalled to Rome where he was made Nero's tutor.  You know how this is going to end...  In 65 Nero commanded him to commit suicide for his involvement in a conspiracy.  He slit his veins, dictated a dissertation, drank hemlock and died in a vapor bath...  like you do... P hoto #1 looks like Malibu comes to Hermosa Beach.  In actuality, it's more like Morro Bay comes to Hermosa Beach.  Moments after Coach Frank took this photo there was a huge splash about 25 yards southwest of the end of the pier.  Observers on the end of the pier and a couple of folks in the water confirmed that it was

Canadian-Style Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... A third of the people who come in think the place is named "Ivan's"...  A third think the place is named "Ronnie's"...  The other third think that it's called "Brother's" because Ivan and Ronnie are brothers... H azy sun, partly cloudy and rain coming down from the north.  15 miles visibility and offshore winds this morning at 3.2kts.  The sea surface was smooth, with a slight wind tack.  The air temp was 53.2˚ and the water was trying to act winter-like at 60.8˚.  With the coming rain it might actually dip below the 60˚ mark!  Low tide was late at 11:04am +0.4' and high tide will follow at 5:49pm +3.3'.  The surf was being fed by a west swell out of 276˚ at 3.3' and it was a solid 2' to 3' on the beach...  Better on the higher tides... Drake Brown creates a study in blue...  ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."  The Professor!!

Topanga Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... Y ou live where there's no snow on the ground.  First period is surfing class.  Brother's Burritos is 50 yards away.  Lots of reasons to smile...  (Hali, Frank, Kyle & Emma.   photo Coach Frank ) W hen the sun came up (at 6:27am to be exact) winds were calm, there was 20 miles visibility and it was 46.5˚.  An hour later it was blowing like hell out of the north at 12.3kts and the sea surface was chopped up.  The blue sky had turned a bit hazy and gusts were going over 15kts.  It took us almost 45 minutes to bike from Burnout to Hermosa against the blow (it took us 15 to blast all the way back!)  Low tide is at 8:02am +0.7' and high tide will be at 2:12pm +3.2'.  Despite all the wind, we have a west swell out of 261˚ at 3.6' and it's a crumbling 2' to 3'...  Could be good mañana... C hasing the illusive "Green Flash."  Don't know why we put that in quotation marks.  Green flash is perfectly good English.  Maybe we j

Post Oscar Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... T he notion that all Portagee girls have mustaches is just a fiction... A fter a riotous rainstorm about 2:30am the day dawned cloudless and brilliant.  Winds were offshore by 4.2kts and the sea surface had a bit of residual bump from the passing front.  The air temperature was a chilly 51.2˚ and the water was 61.7˚.  Low tide was at 6:40am +0.6' and high tide is at 12:41pm +3.8'.  We have a SW swell out of 231˚ at 3.0' and it was 2' to 3' with some fine little snappers...  Go gettum'... N ick "Flinch" Padilla, Sunday morning all by himself on that little left pier nugget.  He shot the pier on every other wave and never got his hair wet the whole time we watched him...  ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."  The Professor!!

Vox Populi Friday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... A n urchin stick in Mexico last August surfaces in February...  Many thanks to Dr. Barney Cal for his surgical expertise...  Yeah it hurt!...  But the waves were worth it... O vercast this morning and the haze is keeping the visibility down to about 3 miles.  Winds were offshore by 1.6kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 53.0˚ and the water is 62.1˚.  High tide was at 9:50am +5.9' and low tide will follow at 4:18pm -0.8'.  We have a waning WSW swell out of 254˚ at 2.6'.  Still rideable at around 3' but will get even better on the lowering tide... H appy hour tonight at 5:30pm at the Bluewater Grill.  We'll try to get there in time to get the fire pit!  If not, bundle up! K ris Hall just finished a great looking board for Alaina Gomez.  If you haven't seen his craftsmanship, it's worth a look.  Still honing his skills, but he's well on the way!  Shown here leaving the vicinity of the pier on the nose...  ✠ "Whe

Tomahawk Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... S o, if you climb this spire in Dublin (colloquially known as the "Stiffy on the Liffy"), you can ascend directly into the land of the giants.  They probably mean, James Joyce, Oscar Wilde and George Bernard Shaw, but some people believe there are really giants, like Paul Bunyan or the Jolly Green Giant.  So you can climb as far as you want, but you have to watch in case a giant is coming down...  (photo:   Barry Santos, All Ireland Times. ) O vercast this morning with 5 miles visibility and calm winds.  The sea surface was smooth.  The air temperature was 55.8˚ and the water was 61.9˚.  You are right about 98.6˚.  High tide was at 7:32am +6.4' and low tide will be at 2:24pm -1.4'.  Minus tides the rest of this week in the pm.  We have a SW swell out of 234˚ at 2.6' and it was 2' and rendered almost unrideable by the extreme tide.  Biggest tide differentials are tomorrow when there will be an almost 8' variation in the tides... T hen

More Than A Feeling Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... B iking to dinner tonight, there was a square rigger sailing off into the sunset.  Could've been the "Black Pearl," "The Flying Dutchman" or the "Cutty Sark."  It was packed to the gills with lubbers watching the sun go down.  Looks like they were about to get their monies worth... O vercast with some light fog this morning.  Visibility was in the 1 to 2 mile range.  Winds were light offshore at 2.2kts changing onshore early.  The air temperature was 55.6˚ and the water is holding at 61.3˚.  High tide is at 6:45am +6.1' and low tide will be at 1:47pm -1.1'.  We have a WSW swell out of 243˚ at 3.3' and that was just about it, working best a the higher tide...  W e had just stepped in from the Tiki Bar and lo-and-behold!  There was a genuine mermaid in our kitchen!  She sang us a song and then jumped into the tub and disappeared!  Like they do...  Amazing!  ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."  The Pro

Another Friday The 13th Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... I t's Friday the 13th, tomorrow's Valentine's Day, it feels like summer.  We have no choice.  We're going to the Mermaid tonight and sit outside and enjoy the moment.  Join up!  5:30pm... N o, it's not happening at Sapphire... Maybe mañana, or maybe not...  Cloudless and warming up with 20+ miles visibility.  Winds were offshore at checkout at 3kts and the sea surface was smooth, but resisting glassiness.  The air temp was 62.2˚ on the rise as soon as the sun cleared the horizon at 6:39am and the water is 62.1˚ at the buoy.  High tide was early at 4:02am +4.7' and low tide follows at 11:43am +0.5'.  It's a west swell out of 261˚ at 3.6' and we'll call it 3' to 4' and better on the way to Manhattan...  W e don't care what it says , we're gonna stop anyway...   ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."  The Professor!!

It'a Already Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... G uess who's back in the water?  Yeah, yeah, it's none other than Jimmy Thomas!  His back has been really acting up recently, but after a month he's back in the blue...  (photos:   René Coconut, Coconut Telegraph ) A cloudless day with 20+ miles visibility.  Santana's out of the NNE at 6.6kts and the sea surface is smooth. The air temp is 60.3˚ and the water is 61.3˚.  Low tide is at 10:44am +1.1' and high tide will follow at 5:08pm +2.7', for a minimum of tidal variation.  We have a WSW swell out of 254˚ at 2.6' and it's 3' at most of the beach breaks... U ptown, downtown.  LoLa lurking in the shadows with intent to loom.  A beautiful evening in LA.  You get to count it as a summer day if you wish...  Supposed to be the same mañana!  If so, the Mermaid is in the running for a happy hour spot.  Sit outside and watch the Strand roll by...  (5:30pm +-)  ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."  The Professor!!

Back To Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... T he surf has jumped a bit in the last 3 or 4 days and on Sunday it was sending up a bit of mist along the peninsula.  It's getting bigger, so check it out... T his morning it was overcast with about 5 miles visibility and the wind was almost howling at 5.6kts.  Enough to chop it up a bit!  Warmer than it looked, the air was 60.3˚ and the water was 61.5˚.  Low tide was at 6:20am +1.7' and high tide will be at 11:54am +3.5', as the tides ramp up for next weeks big highs and minus lows.  We have a swell out of 258˚ WSW at 5.6' and it was 3' to 5'... W haddya mean there aren't any black hockey players!  No, wait - Hey that's the president of these United States!  Cool.  This is the largest contingent of Hermosa locals to ever have a visit with the prez...  ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."  The Professor!!

The Odd Surfer Sunday Surf & Culture Report (& Thank You)

Lost Boys & Co... F or all those who joined in the special "Evening With Danger Boy & Friends" we extend a hearty "Thank You!" T he food was great (carnitas, chile & pupusas) along with some great pupus and certainly enough to drink.  Two thumbs up on the cerviche.  The desserts were fabu (if you didn't try Edrina & Hella's Idaho Shortcake Surprise you really missed it!)  Thanks to everyone who brought their musical talents, instruments and good voices.  Some outstanding surprises and talented young people as well! T hings were going nicely, people were warming up, the kids were having a good time playing upstairs when there was a bit of commotion.  All of a sudden Antonio Angeles broke through the plexiglas window and fell.  That would have really been a disaster, except for the fact that his mom, Jackie happened to be underneath the window and broke his fall!  Clarky turned to the Professor and said, " Now it's a party..."  T

There's Something About A Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... O kay, so a lot of Americans are a bit dim about geography, but even we were taken aback when the person next to us at brekky said, "Shouldn't this be on the sports page?"  Not one to let it go, Boris Vishnevsky says, "Well, it's a double-double and considering he's been retired for some time, it's big news."  Michael Jordan fans everywhere are celebrating... F oggy with 1 to 2 miles visibility.  Winds were offshore at 3.3kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 55.5˚ and the water is 62.4˚.  In a lot of winters those numbers would be reversed.  High tide was at 9:30am +5.3' and low tide will follow at 4:13pm -0.2'.  We have a WSW swell out of 257˚ at 3.0' and it's 2' to 3' and we saw Rasta Pete, J.P. and the Professor on the south side trying to stretch out a few walls... O nce the fog lifts, it's a damned pretty place... D anger Boy & Friends - Saturday, 5pm at the Tiki Bar - Just a

Workforce Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... P ay attention to the man behind the curtain...  Jack Langdon stretching five for some tube travel time... T rying to look good this morning, but it was cloudy and close.  Winds were offshore by 2.7kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air was 56.3˚, but it felt chillier than that and the water was 61.9˚.  High tide was at 8:59am +5.6' and low tide will be at 3:47pm -0.4'.  We have a west swell out of 261˚ at 3.3' and it was a pounding 3' to almost 5' and digging some holes.  Let's hope it excavates some channels... S o we get this call...  "Professor, should I go public about the Cosby thing?" "Who is this? "It's Bruce Jenner!" "Whaddya mean the Cosby thing?" "I think he drugged me and..." "No WAIT...  don't you think you're getting enough ink already?  Maybe you should sit on this for awhile...  Bruce, stop crying...  Pull yourself together..."  ✠ "When the surf br

Take The Weather With You Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... E mma Waldinger is one of our favorite surfers and she has the enviable habit of getting the best waves when someone points a camera at her.  Julie Brown got this shot in Emma's shortboard heat against PV.  But if that isn't enough Emma's also a musician and she's in a band called "Unknown."  She's the rhythm guitar player and since she plays guitar like she surfs, it's pretty sure they won't be "unknown" for long.   Emma warming up for a set at the Lighthouse! F oggy this morning with about 200 yards visibility at checkout.  Winds were calm so the foggies lingered for a while, but the sea surface was smooth.  The air temperature was 55.0˚ and the water was 61.9˚.  High tide was at 8:28am +5.7' and low tide will be at 3:21pm -0.6' for your low tide soup collecting pleasure.  We have a west swell out of 261˚ at 3.0' and it looked like it might have been 2' to 3', but it was pretty damned foggy... &