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Showing posts from January, 2022

Not The Pipeline Friday Surf & Culture report

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Lost Boys & Co... S o, it's not the Pipeline (#1) but it did jump up and munch this kid on the inside this morning.  You could almost see the teeth.  But it was a beautiful morning with 10 miles visibility and partly cloudy skies.  Winds were offshore by 3 to 5kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 44.4º and the water is desperate to hit 60 at 59.5º.  High tide at 5:25am +6.0' and low tide follows at 1:01pm -0.9'.  We have a WSW swell out of 257º at 2.6' and it was a solid 3', but still a bit walled... S ome celebrity sightings on the beach this a.m. with B$, CMissle, Kira Bones, Burnsy and Chris, checking out the Professor's new freshy.  Then who should show up but the bride-to-be, Jah Morgan on her Ultra-Red surf dagger.  Despite the poor quality of the surf, Burnsy got some good drops on her new short board and the Professor proclaimed that the new bullet was a paddling machine... W e'll be out next week exploring the wilds of Idaho and

Extreme Pinball Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... T he Redondo Surf Team squeaked by Palos Verdes this morning to win in lined up 2' to 3' surf at Torrance Beach.  After four heats and a tied score, the Seahawk women's longboard team hit the water and finished one, two, three sealing the victory for RUHS! Some of the standouts: Heat 1: 3rd Dane Acosta Heat 2: 3rd Blake Helmrich Heat 3: 2nd Taylor Brocoum 3rd Riley Friedman Heat 4:  (Photo #1.  Zac, Asher and Lukas) 2nd Lukas Stramotas Heat 5: 1st Bridget Swift 2nd Riley Friedman 3rd Bekkah Assadi Heat 6: 3rd Evan Johnson Heat 7: 3rd Billy Galin T he morning was crisp and bracing and 10miles visibility. Light offshore winds and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 44.9º and the water is 58.8º.  Low tide was at 12:09pm -0.2' and high tide was at 6:48pm +3.1'.  We have a west swell out of 264º at 3.0' and it was 2' to 3' at Torrance and maybe a skoshee bigger at Hermosa...  We'll see if the morning high tide helps peak th

Definition Of A Wall Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... I f you need the definition of a walled-up wave, why don't you start with Exhibit #1.  We couldn't fit the entire thing into one frame.  It stretched from the pier to 10th St. and maybe a little farther down the line.  It's been this way for most of a week.  Waiting for it to change it's mind and break into a few peaks.  Otherwise, conditions were fabulous.  The winds were calm and the skies clear.  It was chilly at 46.6º and the water is trying at 59.2º.  Low tide was at 11:07am +0.6' and high tide is at 5:25pm +2.8', for a really low high tide.  There's a WSW swell out of 250º at 3.9' and it was almost twice that at 4' to 6' with some real thumpers... T he new team hats came in and the team was killing us stylin' for the camera.  in #2 the girls were doing the low-brow, standard issue and South Bay High Hat.  The boys didn't disappoint (#3) with the beanie-ride, hoody side-swipe, hoody head-on, hoody full-shade, bo

Lose Track Of Your Timing Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... W e joined the esteemed biologist José Bacalläo this morning for a surf at Cabrillo Beach.  Photo #1 shows the Spanish Steps and the rocky promontory just inside of the seaweed lined outside rocks.  Bacalläo, now works at the Cabrillo Beach Marine Museum, just steps from this break and took some time to show us the line-up and where we might be most successful.  #2 shows the sweep of the beach and the second peak to the south of the main point.  It was relatively uncrowded with only five of us in the water initially.  There were two guys left when we got out of the water and then a couple of SUP-ers paddled out at the second peak.  This was a straight west swell and it would be interesting to see how it might work on a south swell.  It's a soft wave, so get ready to paddle a bit... 10 M iles visibility under partly cloudy skies.  Winds were offshore by 4 to 6kts and the sea surface was smooth almost glassy, tempered by the seaweed.  The air temperature was 50.

It's A Bibingka Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... W ake up and smell the bibingka (#1)!  A favorite Filipino breakfast treat that includes eggs, salted duck egg, rice flour, banana leaf and coconut.  Baked until golden brown, worth getting up for!  Whaddy'a expect from a country that has "Bong Bong" as it's favorite son... H ermosa was a foot bigger than yesterday, but 50 yards more walled up (#2).  Great visibility and not a cloud in the sky, with offshore winds at 2 to 4kts.  The sea surface was smooth.  The air was a cool 46.9º and the water is 58.6º.  Low tide was at 8:02am+1.9' and high tide will be at 1:21pm +3.3'.  There's a west swell out of 268º at 2.6' and it was 2' to 3', but doing that low tide Hermosa thing.  Of course Sapphire (#3) was doing the Sapphire thing, which is flat to flatter...  Maybe later in the week... "L egends of the Parking Lots (#4)"  Here we have "North Manhattan Pier Parking Lot Legend" Charlie Paine, kicking it with t

I'm Just Your Fool Friday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... W hen reality isn't enough we tweak the video levels, nudge the saturation and kick the contrast and things start looking interesting.  Moonrise Thursday evening through the palms (#1).  The green was a UFO flitting through the scene.  ( Barry Santos for UFO's Brazil ) M eanwhile, in Hermosa it was small, but surprisingly fun.  Clear water and skies with at least 20 miles visibility.  Winds were offshore 3 to 5kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air was cold at 46.5º and the water is 58.8º.  High tide was at 10:31am +5.3' and low tide is at 5:37pm -0.2'.  There's a weak WSW swell out of 250º at 2.0' and it was that with some fatter little runners that made it fun. O n a morning like this there's nothing like a hot bowl of Elder's pozolé (#3).  Just wait until Sunday when it's gotten good and thick and lip-smackin' good...  But Friday's not bad either...  Tarsan, Sancho, LoLa and Danger Girl... ✠ "When the surf

Farmer's Market Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... C lear emerald water (#1) and cloudless skies (except for that lingering layer of gray/brown smog out there.)  Winds were calm and the sea surface smooth.  The air was a chilly 46.9º and the water is trying at 59.0º.  High tide clocks in at 9:55am +5.7' and low tide will be at 5:05pm -0.5'.  The 46221 Santa Monica Bay Buoy is telling us that we have a WSW combo swell out of 255º at 2.0' and it was 1' to 3'... A s if to prove the point we got a shot of Tamara on the north side (#2) making the best of this little right.  She's been doing more regular surfing and less stand-up recently.  You can see her SUP background when she jumps up and plants her feet.  She has that little SUP hop... E ven a block away you can tell that this is Kawika (#3).  Turning this little right into a pitching left he got covered up and then pulled out through the curtain.  He's got that windmill-arm style and he rarely misses a wave when he's got it in his s

Windrow Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... T hought we'd look back at a year ago this week and see what was happening.  Of course there's always a checkout going on.  In this case (#1) it was Kawika, Doc ?, Jah and Bacalläo.  (Photo courtesy EuroTrash, Barry Santos (originally published as "I'm checking YOU out!" )) C loudy this morning with less than 10 miles visibility.  Winds out of the SE by 2 to 3kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temperature was 54.5º and the water is 58.8º.  High tide peaks at 9:19am +5.9' and low tide is at 4:35pm -0.7'.  It's a west swell out of 261º at 3.9' and it was 3' to 4'... S o #2 doesn't look particularly interesting until you realize it's blowing like crazy from the east!  Early in the morning it started out on-shore and then it switched and blew a gale.  It blew all of the loose palm fronds from the west side of Catalina on to the street, then it blew all of the fronds from the east side to the middle of th

Hunga Tonga - Hunga Ha'apai Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... ( N ote:  Despite feeling within the bounds of normal (I have no idea what that means) I'm still testing positive (#1).  I'm not coaching, not having brekky at Brother's and not meeting numerous social obligations.  I am trying to rest, be vigilant and not go out of my fucking mind...  Thank you, the Professor) S teve O'Brien sent this great shot of Burnout (#2) looking quite a bit like Zicatela, Puerto Escondido, Mexico.  Or actually quite a bit like Backdoor, Pipeline.  Just a short paddle and Yippee!  C ertainly smaller than that today, with partly cloudy skies and +20 miles visibility.  Winds were light and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temperature was 56.6º and the water is 58.8.  High tide was at 8:47am +6.0' and low tide will be at 4:05pm -0.8'.  We have a west swell out of 262º with no excuses, and it's registering 3.3' at the buoy and 2' to 3' on the beach. T he Bus is on the verge of hitting an even 70,000 m

A Martin Luther King Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... (Thank you to all of the folks who are wishing me well during my Covid quarantine.  Currently, it just feels like I'm getting over a cold.  I'm self-quarantining at least until Wednesday.  The Professor!) #1)  A rt shot.  Sometimes the back of an establishment tells you more than the front.  Behind the Hermosa Plaza. L ast week, before she left for Hawaii, Burnsy managed to shoot some great shots of the few hearty souls who tried some of the bigger waves.  This guy (#'s 2 & 3) got ahead of his board, then skidded down the face of the wave before getting rolled for about 50 yards.  Today is looking a bit more docile with cloudy skies and 9 miles visibility.  Winds were out of the east by 5.5kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temperature was 54.9º and the water is 59.0º.  High tide was at 8:14am +6.0' and low tide is at 335pm -0.8' to start a week of p.m. low tides.  We have a west swell out of 265º at 3.9' and it's 2' t

De Facto Friday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... ( NOTE :  Took a Covid test this afternoon and tested positive.  I've been wearing my mask, washing my hands and trying to be responsible, but apparently I have failed.  I have a bit of a cough and a runny nose, but other than being pissed off that I have to isolate, I feel fine.  I will annoy you with updates as my condition changes😖.) S urf is still good size.  10 miles visibility under cloudy skies.  Winds were offshore by 2 to 3kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 55.0º and the water is 57.9º.  High tide was at 6:33am +5.6' and low tide follows at 2:05pm -0.4'.  The buoy was 3.6' on a west swell out of 262º and that translated to 4' to 6' walled up, waffly lines... Z ack Siegel was on fire this morning (#1)!  This thing walled up and covered him for a good three seconds, which of course seems like an eternity when you're in there.  He usually rides long boards, but because of the size of the surf he decided to go t

Inexpugnable Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... #1)  T his wave would've been a stretch even if you had jets or were towed in...  It was pretty anyway... S well was still pumping this morning as we checked to see if it were docile enough to venture out.  It was gray and cloudy and threatened rain on and off all day.Winds were variable, between 2 to 3kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 55.6º and the water is still holding at 58.1º.  High tide was at 5:57am +5.4' and low tide followed at 1:31pm -0.1'.  We had a west swell out of 264º at 4.9' but it was focused on Hermosa driving it up to 5' to 7' and some crunchy outsiders... #2)  S econd wave of a five wave set that had the pier shaking.  Well overhead, it had a pit that you could ride for several seconds if you were in the right place.  We watched Julian Rodriguez on a foamy get bounced on a right and then get smoked as he tried to paddle back out.  The third wave landed right on his head and pulled his leash out and

Enormous Expectations Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... Y es, it was big.  Photo #1 is the face of one of the sets.  It was easy double-Overhead.  Actually, the white water was double-O and #2 is a pretty solid indicator of the size and power of this swell.  If you were unlucky enough to get caught inside there was some great leash testing going on... T he morning dawned gray and cool with high clouds and 10 miles visibility.  Winds were off from the NE at 3 to 8kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temperature was 51.5º and the water is 58.3º.  High tide was at 5:20am +5.2' and low tide will be at 12:53pm +0.3'.  There's a west swell out of 265º at 5.9' and it was twice that big in the surf line at 6' to 12' and extremely few corners.  All morning we saw three waves ridden with any success at all.  But some of the wipeouts were unbelievable!  S etting up for some smoking action on the inside (which seconds before had been the "outside"), here we see a number of brave chargers d

A Tactical Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... T he sunrise was fabulous but the sunset last night (#1) was a traffic stopper.  If you were in a hurry the Esplanade was the wrong way to go... S upposed to have started to get big today, but this is what it looked like this morning at Sapphire (#2) at checkout.  Fantastic visibility at +20 miles and mostly cloudless skies.  Winds were off from the NE from 3 to 5kts and the sea surface was brushed smooth.  The air was a chilly 49.5º and the water is holding around a 58.3º.  Low tide was at 12:07pm +3.0' and high tide ends the day at 6:19pm +3.0'.  We had a west swell out of 268º at 3.0' and it was 1' to 3' and walled up for blocks...  We'll be checking early and let the familia know what's cracking... T rying desperately to earn his keep, the Professor (#3) punched out some of the dents in the fascia surrounding the patio at Brother's.  Who runs into these things?  It doesn't matter, we'll punch them out.  The dents, not th