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Showing posts from November, 2018

Caveat Lector* Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... #1 , In which Ché tells us that he is going to spank Marion with the very hand he's holding up...  Goes without saying (people always say this before they say something anyway) that last night's soiree was a blast!  There was pizza, beer and your own personal shaper!  What more could you want?  Oh yeah, Becker was having some great deals for fam & friends! A s for the surf, the day dawned clear and with only a few clouds scudding around (see #6).  Winds were off by 3.7kts and the sea surface still had some residual bump from yesterday's blow (see #6).  The air was a cool 54.6 and the water is remarkably warm at 64.2.  Low tide was at 10:01am +2.3' and high tide follows at 3:28pm +4.4'.  We have a west swell out of 267º at 10' - 12' and we'll call it that, unless you want to get into increments of fear, dread, fright, alarm, panic or terror... (see #6)  (Also remember this is the South Bay and there's no sissy channel like

C'est Plus Qu'un crime, C'est Une Faute Thursday Surf & Culture Report*

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  Lost Boys & Co... J ust heard that Mexico Mike Murphy had a run-in with a jet ski!  Not THE Jetski, but an actual jet ski...  Meanwhile Chris Sellars was in Peahi ( better known in surfing circles as "Jaws") and those little dots you see (#1) outside the break, are in fact jet skis.  About two minutes after he took this shot he reported that one of them went over the falls!  Nothing like taking off and having your 800lb ride come flying over your head... S o Jaws was like 30' and Hermosa was like 8' to 10' (#2) but it was gray and angry on it's own terms.  Visibility was less than a mile and at times the rain got things down to 50'.  Winds were wacky, but mostly onshore, gusting to 20kts and the sea surface was chopped.  The air temp was 57.0 and the water is a remarkable 64.8.  Low tide was at 8:25am +2.8' and high tide will follow at 1:57pm +4.7'.  We have a west swell out of 268º at 6.9' and it was 3' to 8' and a bit rugged... 

Not THAT Big Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co...   F rom Miloe in Hawaii... Aloha For those...getting older and slower...like me about to turn 75....this is The BEST board ever made....fast paddling, unbelievably stable to get up and ride.  Surfed 3 feet over head at an open ocean bay reef (a bit like the Cove in PV) called Poi Kai Bay today....paddled easily into #1 wave, super easy to stand up on this Shaka board, and make the drop to the left all the way to the perpendicular reef and then turned to the right for the reform and even got to the nose before tumbling off.  I love this board.  Jose de Che is miracle shaper.  And sidekick Franksie, my board designer, artist extraordinaire, etc etc is amazing also.  Wish you were all here to enjoy this surf on all sides of the island, sun and 84 degree water.  Chris Miloe Well, that was nice!  Ask for the "Miloe Shaka Model" by name... (#1) T alk about a weird day !  Hermosa was 5' to 8' with maybe some bigger

No Technique Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... M iloe sent this today:  Frank...et al It was 27 feet at Sunset in front of your house you rent at Sunset beach today.....A little bumpy so they did not run the Triple Crown Sunset contest today.  Chris Miloe Thank goodness!  While we were there there were a couple of overhead days and THAT was big enough...  We can only imagine what Val's looks like, maybe a little slippery...  Speaking of Miloe, he's working out on his new "Miloe Shaka Model" (#1) shaped by Ché.  We're betting he's finding some good ones somewhere on that island...  Kinda wondering how the Shaka Model works in 27' surf? M eanwhile we're waiting for some bigger waves here in the South Bay.  A beautiful bright fall morning with 10 miles visibility and high clouds.  Winds were offshore by 3.2kts and the sea surface was smooth.The air was a chilly 51.9 and the water is 65.1, but you might expect that all to change with a new swell rolling throu

A Lubricious Monday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... F rom our family (#1 immediate and extended fam) to yours, "Hope you had an excellent Thanksgiving!"  Despite rumors to the contrary, there is much to be thankful about... A beautiful morning with 20+ miles visibility and cloudless skies.  Winds were fresh offshore by n4.3kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air was a chilly 51.7, but the water is holding at 65.5, pretty good for late November!  High tide was at 10:27am +6.2' and low tide will be at 5:57pm -0.6'.  We have a 3.0' west swell out of 271º and that was just about the size of it with some great lefts and the occasional short right... NOTE:   We just found out that Redondo and South High will be having a contest at the Hermosa Pier in the morning, starting at 6:30.  Maybe we wanna give Longfellow a shot and avoid the crunch... Y ou have a choice to pick #2 or #3...  #2 is funny and fun, but Mark the Poolman has kinds missed the point of the sly photobomb...  #3 is classic, bu

Kind Of A Turkey Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... E ven when Buck goes into the critical sections (#1) he still makes it look casual...  Somewhere around the middle of the bay, at that shallow spot in the reef, La Paz, La Libertad, El Salvador... H azy and damp this morning with 5 miles visibility.  Winds were light onshore by 5.2kts and the sea surface was rippled.  The air was 50.0 and the water is 65.5.  High tide was at 6:54am +5.7' and low tide will be at 1:31pm +0.4'.  We have a SSW swell out of 202º at 2.3' and it was 1' to 2' and only Christian could make it look like it was at all rideable... J o Ambrosi, our token Aussie, and LoLa (#2) take a break from bones to watch the sun go down.  Jo has competed in something like 13 straight Catalina Classics and come in second a number of times...  She's a fireman in Australia and spends half the year life-guarding in Catalina...  E ven the mariachi's took a break to watch the sun dip into the Pacific (#3)... T he Professor's wav

Louie Louie Monday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... W e thought they ought to have this sign (#1) on 11th St. pointing toward Brother's... T his is turning out to be a rather disappointing fall season in the water...  Like today, the offshores were blowing just fine at 4.3kts and the sea surface was glassy.  The air was a bit chilly at 55.5 and the water is still 65.7.  High tide was at 6:29am +5.4' and low tide will be at 12:58pm +1.0'.  We have a weak WSW swell out of 250º at 2.3' and it was a walled and crashy 1' to 3' and not entertaining enough to lure us out... T he time honored duty of stirring the chicharonés (#2).  They offed the pig at four in the morning and then spent the rest of the morning rendering and cooking the porker.  They ended up with several gallons of pork oil which they share and use for cooking.  We, of course, spent the afternoon munching on pork bits and lounging around at Mama Barahona's house.  Alejandro (#3) couldn't help but nibble on the tail of the

Sometimes They Bloom On Saturday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... O scar Barahona, had heard that there was a fantastic botanical garden on the way out to his mom's place.  Instead of turning right to go to mom's, you turn left and go about a mile or so and then there's this dirt road that leads off into the bush.  You get to a gate that says, "Hacienda Moran."  From that point on, it's kind of unbelievable...  There's a small parking lot and then, there's a restaurant and a relatively spacious area that could be used for receptions or dancing.  Around the perimeter and throughout the property were banks of potted plants and hanging ferns, bromeliads and all manner of climbing vines.  Most spectacular were the orchids and anthuriums (of which he had several rare strains.)  There were literally hundreds (maybe thousands?) of plants.  There were areas dedicated to the propagation of the various species and various means of watering specific plants. T he most amazing thing was that in all of the

Amber Is The Color Of Your Energy Friday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... I f you've ever surfed Third Reef Sappharua, then this is a familiar silhouette (#1)...  Mark the Poolman on his 8'8" cutting a perfect line on this La Paz right.  Mark and his crew go to El Salvador twice a year and have established an enviable rapport with the locals.  Always fun to watch him, both in the water and out...  Also quite the whiz at trivia... S lightly smokey skies and 15 miles visibility.  Winds were steady onshore at 3.7kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 52.5 and the water is 66.0, which feels quite toasty.  High tide was at 11:07am +4.3' and low tide follows at 11:07am +2.7'.  We have a variable swell mostly west at 260º at 2.6' and the surf was pulsing from 2' to 5'...  It would be small and then these mackers would come out of straight west and just clean up...  Looks like it's trying to do something.  Film crew is leaving Hermosa...  There might be someplace to park now... I n #2 the me

A Slightly Grumpy Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... I f this sign (#4) were in the United States, it might say "INCREASE VELOCITY - SURFERS IN THE ROADWAY".  They want you to have fun and come back... H ere in the fire ravaged Southland everyone is trying to figure out how to get to Malibu while the road is closed and surf without 100 people in the water.  Someone told Bobby Warchola that they would boat him to Malibu for $100 for fuel.  He was looking for someone that would split it with him...  Meanwhile it was hazy sun and 15 miles visibility and the offshores were wafting through at 3.9kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air was 52 and the water was 66.0.  Low tide was at 10:00am +3.2' and high tide comes in at 2:47pm +3.9 for not much of a tide change.  We have a SW swell out of 236º at 2.3'.  The surf is 1' and poor... (#1) Water 85º, Air 80º, Margarita 35º...  Enjoying the evening happy hour ritual... B uck (#2) opening the cooler to get another Pilsener™.  If you look closely y

Toponymic Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... El Tunco means "the pig" in Spanish.  It gets it's name from the rock that looks passingly like the profile of a lunging porker.  It used to look more like a pig before the "nose" got knocked off a few years ago.  There's something about this outcropping that just begs you to get your camera out.  Then the light changes and it looks totally different or the tide rises and suddenly it's at the center of a mass of shooting spray and foam and you're back studying the whole show...  Looking docile and welcoming in #1... A beautiful fall morning in the film capital of the world - Hermosa Beach!  Winds were offshore by 3.2kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air was a crisp 50º and all the extras in "Veronica Mars:  Spring Break" were shivering in their trunks and bikinis.  The water is 66.2.  Low tide was early at 5:44am +3.4' and high tide was at 11:48am +4.5'.  There's a weak SSW swell out of 198º at 2.

Veteran's Day Monday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... T hanks to all the Veterans out there who served for out country.  We all owe them a debt of gratitude and maybe the politicians of the world owe them an apology... S unny and a bit smokey haze this morning with a light offshore working.  The air was a chilly 47.8 and the water is 66.7 and crystal clear.  High tide was at 11:00am +5.0' and low tide is in the dark at 6:55pm +0.6'.  We have a SSW swell out of 206º at 1.6' and it was teeny...  maybe smaller... O ff in the distance Sunzal beckons (#1).  As good as it got, we found ourselves more often surfing Bocanita and the faster, steeper Bocanita rights.  However, Buck did grab a couple of good ones on the point and on this day Rudy the photographer caught him on the inside (#2)... S ome of this year's crew (#3) included Melissa Mazur, Zoose, Johnny Huapo, Capitan Donaldo and LoLa...  We see them here waiting for the sun to go down on another golden El Salvador afternoon... (#4) W e spent some ti
This is my favorite one http://take.wbbullies.com   Frank Paine