Not THAT Big Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

 
Lost Boys & Co...
 
From Miloe in Hawaii...
Aloha

For those...getting older and slower...like me about to turn 75....this is The BEST board ever made....fast paddling, unbelievably stable to get up and ride.  Surfed 3 feet over head at an open ocean bay reef (a bit like the Cove in PV) called Poi Kai Bay today....paddled easily into #1 wave, super easy to stand up on this Shaka board, and make the drop to the left all the way to the perpendicular reef and then turned to the right for the reform and even got to the nose before tumbling off.  I love this board.  Jose de Che is miracle shaper.  And sidekick Franksie, my board designer, artist extraordinaire, etc etc is amazing also.  Wish you were all here to enjoy this surf on all sides of the island, sun and 84 degree water. 
Chris Miloe
Well, that was nice!  Ask for the "Miloe Shaka Model" by name... (#1)

Talk about a weird day!  Hermosa was 5' to 8' with maybe some bigger sets!  It was thumping!  The low tide was turning things inside out and there were few corners...  Sapphire was 2' and weak and The Avenues and Topaz, being the only rideable spots, were plugged with eager gladiators unfazed by the sketchy tide conditions early.  It was cloudy, but no threat of rain and the wind was offshore by 5.5kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temperature was 54.3 and the water is holding at 64.9.  Low tide was at 6:37am +2.9' and high tide was at 12:31pm +5.2'.  Amazing how much 2' of tide makes.  We have a west swell out of 267º at 5.2' and depending on your location it was 2' to 10' and ankle-biting to gnarly...

Mr. Christian, was test piloting a Barahona secret double-ender on the south side of the pier when this nice looking right came through on the north side (#2).  Since we don't have the proper documentation to surf the northside of the pier, we just watched...  (photo credit:  Jah Morgan for Barahona Web)

Meanwhile, for those who like sparklies...  This spot breaks in a shallow bay that's probably almost a half a mile across from the point to the pier.  The photographers sit on the beach in the middle of the bay and snap away as you ride across.  On this morning, when you got about half way, the sun was in the right spot to light up the waves and create some nice star-burst effects.  Not quite Peter Gabriel, but nice just the same...  #3 the Professor, #4 Buck coming out of the shade...

La Hora de Fiesta will be THURSDAY this week and besides meeting the shaper (who needs no introduction) we have no idea what we'll be doing...  Join us at the Becker Shop for the festivities and get gift ideas from your friends who will also be there...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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