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Showing posts from January, 2021

Fourteenth Amendment Friday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... (#1)  S teve Jones at Luau Larry's.  If you order the signature Larry's cocktail you get a hat.  Never-you-mind that the cocktail will cost you ten bucks of your hard earned cash - you get a fucking HAT!  We have two... P artly cloudy this morning, but quickly got down to business with conspicuous amounts of rain falling mid-morning.  Winds were relentless out of the west by 8 to 10 kts and the sea surface was rough and uneven.  The air temp was 45.3º and the ocean was 57.4º.  High tide was at 9:00am +6.3' and low tide follows at  4:08pm -1.2'.  We have a west swell out of 265º at 5.9' and it was 5' to 7' with less than optimum conditions.  The surf (#3) begins to go down in size and the tides will be a bit full early in the day.  You will have to confront your own demons about going into the water with less than 24hours for the contagious shit to calm down.  But... we also remember Danger Boy who would wait for 72 hours before hitting

Yes It's Going To Rain Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... S ome good ones rolling through this morning (#1), if you played the tides correctly.  Mostly clear skies and 10+ miles visibility and offshore winds at 5 to 7kts leaving the sea surface mostly smooth.,  The air temp was still chilly at 44.3º and the water is 57.6º.  High tide was at 8:22am +6.3' and low tide is a full moon low at 3:35pm -1.2'.  Wed had a very clean west swell out of 262º at 5.2' and it was breaking from 4' to overhead on the sets...  R ain forecast this evening (#2) and through tomorrow.  Depending on how long you think it will take things to settle down, it will be Saturday or Sunday before it's time to jump back in the water.  Stay dry and maybe we'll see you at Brother's for a bit of brekky mañana! " T here is no character, howsoever good and fine, but it can be destroyed by ridicule, howsoever poor and witless.  Observe the ass, for instance: his character is about perfect, he is the choicest spirit among all

The Almost Right Word Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... " T he difference between the right word and the almost right word is the difference between lightning and the lightning bug."   Mark Twain T hese lefts (photo #'s 1 & 2) kept marching through the south side of the pier.  To his credit, Zac Seeger was in the water at 5:30am and could barely see, but he says it was great and got better as the tide rose.  To be sure it was cold, like 49.9º in the water and 57.4º in the water with an offshore wind blowing at 14kts.  The sea surface was burnished with that stiff breeze and made for some spectacular manes on the waves.  High tide was at 7:45am +6.1' and low tide was at 3:03pm -1.1'.  We had a 3.6' swell out of the west at 270º and it was 4' to 7' with one set of way overhead outsiders that Mr. Christian managed to snag the lead wave, while the rest of us practiced diving in our much-too-buoyant wet suits.  A character building experience... N ot quite as significant as the left tha

I Don't Need No Doctor Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... I t was a drive-by shot-ing...  Here (#1) we have LoLa getting a load of Corona Virus vaccine to create her own spectacular antibodies.  The Professor got his yesterday, down at the 79th St. Fire Dept. in Los Angeles.  It was the Moderna vaccine and felt very modern.  Didn't feel like there was a chip or anything...  To prove there's no accounting for tricks, yesterday it took an hour of waiting in line to get the vaccine.  Today we drove right up, showed I.D. and got shot in the arm, waited 15 minutes and went on our merry way...  It probably doesn't have anything to do with the mask the nurse was wearing, but it might... T he wind stopped, the tide came up (High at 7:08am +5.9', low at 2:32pm -0.8') and covered the bike path at Ave. C.  Even though the wind stopped it was still a bit bumped and it was colder than shit.  It was 43.5º in the air (and felt colder) and it was 56.8º in the water dropping a couple of degrees from last week.  The sw

It's An Inoculation Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... B lowin' like crazy today (#1), up to 35 to 40kts around 2pm.  10 miles visibility, but hazy and partly cloudy during the day.  51.3º chilly willy degrees and 58.1º in the water.  High tide was at 6:30am +5.6' and low tide was at 2:00pm -0.5'.  There's a thrashing west swell out of 278º at 11.2' and it was 10' to 12' and mostly impossible at most spots.  Not sure how tomorrow will look (#2) and whether or not it will still be ragged or how the winds will be...  We'll take a look and let you know! A new addition to the Lost Boys / Sruf Familia, Leila Callie Gibson (#3) a gift to Caroline Soderstrom and Adam Gibson!  They were trying to wake her up in this photo to go surfing, but it appears she's not ready to hit it at this moment.  No surprise with her parents, she happens to be gorgeous! B ack off!  (#4) These days folks aren't used to manual transmissions, so they snug right up on your ass, not realizing the proclivity of

A Phenolic Friday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... S tormSurf® (#1) is telling us that it's going to be small and confused over the next few days.  We've got wind, rain and oddball tides during this period.  This morning we had cloudy skies and 10 miles visibility with the sun poking out at odd times during the day.At checkout we had 10 miles visibility and the wind changed early gusting to 15kts mid-day.  The air temp was 50.0º and the water is holding at 59.5º.  High tide was at 4:26am +4.7' and low tide was at 12:11pm +0.9'.  We have a WSW swell out of 248º at 3.3' and it was 3' to 5' and still lined up and crashy like it's been for the last week...  Let's see what the new weather patterns have in store for the surf... B ack in Ko'Olina we grabbed this snap (#2) of Bruddah Miloe and the old growth redwood board that his brother-in-law sculpted.  It looks to be about 8'6" and is a perfect dagger.  Finished to a mirrored perfection it's really a gem... W e'

That's Not A Tequila Sunrise Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... E ven though we were looking to the east, this wasn't a Tequila Sunrise, but a Tequila Rainbow (#1)...  It just happens that Bruddah Miloe's house is right under the arc of the rainbow, meaning he gets both pots of gold... O ur forecast (#2) tells us we're taking a dip swell-wise mañana, but we're going to take a look anyway.  This morning we had 20+ miles visibility under cloudless skies.  Winds were light offshore by 2.5kts and the sea surface was only disturbed by a huge number of Spinner Dolphins that could be seen chasing baitballs beyond the surfline.  The air temp was 52.4º and the water is 58.8º.  Low tide was at 11:16am +1.5' and high tide follows at 5:12pm +2.7'.  We have a WSW swell out of 253º at 3.0' and it was 2' to 3' and still a bit wally crashy... L ooks like everyone is home!  (#3) Gotta be dinner time! S o we were looking to the east, let's do a 180 and look to the west (#4).  Bruddah Miloe is holding cour

What's In Store Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... S ome crazy weather over the last couple of days, including wind, smacking waves, rain, fog and sun.  A combination of fog, wind and surf caused this (#1) eerie haze to creep up the hillside at Torrance Beach.  This morning it was clear with 15+ miles visibility.  Winds were light offshore and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temperature was 54.3ºand the water is still 59º.  Low tide was at 9:49am +2.0' and high tide will be at 2:58pm +2.8'.  We currently have a west swell out of 260º at 3.3' and it was 3' to 4' and still walled up, like it has been all week.  Our StormSurf® App (#2) tells us that it should be 1' to 2' over the next few days, but we're also seeing hints of rain in the forecast and more wind events.  Reinforces the notion of checking it every morning.  On a bike ride this afternoon we saw some better peaks with the changing tide, so depending on the wind, the p.m. might be the answer... T hank goodness there'

Trump's Last Stand Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... #1).  T his is a good reason to shake your boardbag before you stick your hand inside.  Although these centipedes have hundreds (?) of legs, they only have one mouth, but that seems to be more than enough!  They have a pair of jaw-like venomous claws that can make you feel like you've been burned.  Now the one we encountered in Hawaii was in the 2" to 3" range, but we discovered that the Scolopendra gigantea can reach 11" long and can sting the shit out of you! C loudy, trying to decide if overcast is a possibility.  Less than 10 miles visibility and offshore winds that have intensified during the day, peaking at 24 to 30kts in the afternoon, cleaning up a lot of loose palm fronds (#2), making Catalina Ave. a bit dicey to navigate.  Always interesting to see the whitecaps running away from shore (#3).  The air was 54.1º and the water is holding steady at 59.7º.  Low tide is at 8:06am +2.3' and high tide will be at 1:16pm +3.3'.  We h

Another Martin Luther King Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... T he crew fluctuates from day-to-day, but for sure some of the solids are (#1) Kawika Ching, Doc ?, Jah Morgan and José Bacallao.  Despite the crashers and gnashers, José, Doc ? and the Professor paddled out and threw themselves at a pretty hopeless collection of walls.  It was a cloudless morning with more than 20 miles visibility.  Winds were offshore and the sea surface was smooth.  The air was a crisp 53.8º and the water is an advertised 59.7, but felt colder than that.  Low tide was at 6:41am +2.3' and high tide was at 12:13pm +4.0'.  We have a west swell out of 270º true at 3.3' and it was 4' to 5' and pounding in about 2' of water. T he weekend was hot and everyone headed to the beach (#2), despite the threat of the virus.  We are fond of saying that we get summer one day at a time no matter what time of year and the last three days fit in the summer column.  It feels as bit close with all these people although many are masked... O n

Finding Friday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... T hings calmed down a bit this morning (#1), but there were still some grinding outsides.  Cloudless skies and offshore winds to the tune of 3 to 5kts.  The air was 55.1º and the water is 59.2º somewhere, but not where we were, because it felt a wee bit colder than that.  Especially when you took three or four cold ones on the head and your ice cream headache started to kick in.  High tide was at 10:01am +6.9' and low tide follows at 5:12pm -0.9'.  We have a west swell out of 263º at a questionable 3.6', since it was 4' to 5' with some fatter sets...  S upposed to be about the same surf conditions mañana (#2) and then go crazy on Sunday.  Hawaii started getting the first pulses of this swell today and we seem to be a couple of days behind... A nother favorite place for the casual longboarder would be Barber's Point (#3).  It breaks out a couple of hundred yards on several reefs from east to west.  Still on the west side, it actually faces s

That's Not An Actual Toilet Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... If you see a toilet in your dream, do NOT use it... A t some golf course (#1), near the beach, after a good surf session we found Bill Mason, The Professor and Bruddah Miloe posing for some snaps.  Probably because they're not doing any snaps on the waves they ride... T his morning the skies were cloudless and the winds were offshore by 3.7kts.  The sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 51.5º and the water was up a degree to 59.0º.  High tide was at 9:21am +6.5' and low tide follows at 4:33pm -1.3'.  We have a WSW swell out of 256º at 4.3' and it was 4' to 5' and almost longboard friendly...  almost...  Looking like the surf is going to jump up over the next couple of days (#2).  Might be time to look for some of those spots that burn off a bit of that swell energy... L oLa (#3) at Miloe's Beach, with wine in hand and her cell phone to record the sunset (#4)...  No green flash, but pretty damned spectacular anyway... ✠ "When th

Wild Gluten Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... " P eople in L.A. are deathly afraid of gluten.  I swear to God, you could rob a liquor store in this city with a bagel." Ryan Reynolds (It also helps that everyone is wearing masks these days...ed.) C lear and cool, it was 48.5º at checkout and 58.5º in the water.  Winds were offshore and the sea surface was smooth.  High tide was at 8:39am +6.7' and low tide will be at 3:53pm -1.6'.  We have a west swell out of 260º at 3.6' and it was 3' to 6' in Hermosa and flat at Sappharua...  Go figure... T aking off from LAX is always an experience, made more interesting with the fog (#1) sending some creeping fingers up the Ballona Wetlands.  You can really see the lowlands and the cooler air at that altitude...  You should also know that the plane we were aboard (an AirBus 330) was almost empty!  LoLa cruised through the plane and counted about 40 passengers!  The flight home was a bit more crowded, but still not uncomfortable in terms of soc