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Showing posts from June, 2021

Surfing's Not A Sport Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... " S urfing's not a sport! It never was! You can try but you can't make it into one. It's something else. It's like the pixie dust gets scattered in your eyes, and I dunno, it's got you." Greg "The Bull" Noll... (#1 airborne at Waimea Bay) T andis Morgan wrote in: Lots of stories indeed… I grew up hearing my dad's favorite, which he recounted again tonight. It was from when Greg gave my dad his first job sanding boards in his factory and it highlights Greg's sometimes macabre sense of humor…A guy named Ricky James who also worked in the factory accidentally sawed off his thumb. When the doctor couldn't sew it back on, Greg took it back to the factory before Ricky had anything to say about it, plopped it in a Dixie cup with some resin and made himself a new paperweight. Being quite the conversation piece, he kept it around the shop for quite a while even though Ricky was less than happy abou

Aloha Greg Noll Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... G reg Noll (#1), local and international big wave legend, board builder and cultural icon passed away in his home in Crescent City.  It's hard to assess the impact he had on the early days of modern surfing and the number of peoples lives that he touched in the process.  A wild man, he gave surfing some of the outlandish cultural vibe it still carries today. A ppropriately gray this morning with 9 miles visibility.  Winds have stayed off all day and the sea surface has been smooth to textured.  The air was 65.0º at checkout and the water is 66.7º.  Low tide was at 8:00am -0.3' and high tide caps at 2:53pm +4.2'.  We had a west swell out of 260º at 3.9' and it was 3' to 5' with some low tide grinders... O ne of our favorite pics (#2) in the old factory between Valley and Cypress.  Pictured are Eddie Talbot (E.T.), Gumby (Pat Ryan) and Greg checking the thickness of a new shortboard.  We used to get our boards glassed there and he's alway

No Mortadella Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... " S ometimes someone unexpectedly comes into your life, outta nowhere, makes your heart race and changes you forever... We call these people cops." T he new addition to the Bradley Terminal at LAX has it all.  This (#1) was a lot more fun than the old men's at the other terminals.  They really need a door though... O vercast this morning and as soon as we hit the water the wind turned onshore by 3 to 5kts.  The sea surface got pretty textured.  The air was 63.0º and the water is 67.3º at the buoy.  We're calling it closer to 64 in the surfline.  Low tide at 7:12am -0.8' and high tide at 2:02pm +4.1'.  We have a thumping SSW swell out of 200º at 3.6' and it was 4' to 5' and determined to readjust your okole if you were too slow... J etski showing off his new treads (#2).  When Layma Leko, saw them she said, "But the design is on the bottom!  Whats'amatter?  You ashamed?"  It wasn't easy getting him off the ben

Rewriting On Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... S till onshore, choppy and walled up (#1).  Talk about a trifecta...  Okay, don't... G reat device for on the road!  An Ilumina light box (#2) with a USB adapter to charge your speakers/pumps/lights and whatever.  It has 5 brightness settings and you can hang it almost anywhere... B ack on Monday! ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!

Unhinged Conspiracy Theory Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... M eanwhile, when asked to describe the events in his own words, the Professor, in his role as "Sub-Commandanté Baba Au Ru3mi" (#1) (the 3 is silent), declared:  "Misto delgato con pronta bebe poon taka taka taka.  Bonga tai roomba de quaga na wommi.  Et figgy, had figgy, shwo figgy de nunco emblaniez.  Sha zoot." L ater he is shown with Commandanté Bacallao (#2) in front of the Pride Tower, demonstrating that a little Cuban and a little Portagee can do great things, IF they have the paint...  Outside the weather was partly cloudy and the winds were trying to blow onshore at 5 to 7kts.  The sea surface was cluttered with windswept debris which included Doc ?, the Professor and Zacky-Boy.  The air temperature was 63.3º and the water was 64.2º and unless your body temp was below 60º it felt chilly.  High tide was at 9:39am +3.9' and low tide followed at 2:16pm +1.9' to no perceptible improvement.  We have a SSW swell out of 190º at 4.3'

Paint Wasn't Even Dry Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... J ah Morgan and the Professor (#1) working on some precision line work on the Pride Tower.  Having done a bit of second story work the Professor got to work out his calves on the ladder detail... O vercast this morning (#2) with some sun breaking through late morning and 10 miles visibility.  Winds were on shore all morning from 3 to 5kts and the sea surface was textured.  The air temperature was 63.3º and the water is 66.2º, but the wind is keeping things cool.  High tide was at 7:40am +3.7' and low tide is at 12:41pm +1.5'.  We had a SSW swell out of 200º true at 3.9' and it was 3' to 4' and Doc Scale was rockin' the yellow Cobley and making it look good... T he Pride Tower was looking pretty good on Sunday afternoon (#3) as the crew was getting ready to do some additional detail work on Monday morning.  But during the evening some idiots yanked down the front railing (#4)  just to fuck with the whole jam...  Amazingly, the crew took it i

Rock Ribbed Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... T here were two waves that looked like they were worth it.  This one (#1) right off the middle sand bar and the wave Mr. Christian caught on his way in...  There was hazy sun this morning and 10 miles visibility.  Winds were offshore for the majority of the day from 4 to 10kts and the sea surface was lightly textured.  The air temperature was 65.5º at checkout and the water was 61.3º.  Low tide was at 8:37am +0.1' and low tide will be at 4:01pm +3.9'.  We have a diminishing west swell out of 270º at 3.9' and it was 4' to 5' with some top to bottom rockers... P ainting continues on the Pride Tower (#2) as the Professor asks why there is no "tan" in the rainbow.  Despite the omission, he continued to represent... (#3) F olks getting serious as the first stripe is laid down and the subsequent measurements are taken.  We're imagining that things will proceed apace at this point... O bviously in solidarity, Sidney at Brother's (#4

Paint Tower 13 Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... A mermaid must have her own special cake (#1) on her special day!  The cousins/nieces/friends threw a bridal shower for Suzi as the wedding day approaches...  Cake by Cousin Rachel... O ur rock 'n roll hero, the fabulous Kirra Lingman (#2) with Comandanté Bacallao on the beat box.  She held forth for a couple of hours and played a bunch of our faves!  Now, put down the guitar and go surf with us... S urf was rugged today, but looked good for the short boarders and young guns.  Hazy sun and 9 miles visibility.  Winds were variable, but switched early out of the west by 4 to 6kts.  The sea surface was textured.  The air temperature was 62.9º and the water is 63.0º.  Low tide was at 7:49am -0.1' and high tide was at 3:14pm +3.6'.  We have a west swell out of 269º at 4.9' and it was bigger and stronger than that at 4' to 6'... C omandanté Bacallao (#3) directing the painting (at this point primering) of the 13th St. Hermosa Lifeguard Tower.  Y

Membrane Monday Surf & Culture report

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Lost Boys & Co... #1)  I f they're invisible, how are we going to see them to believe them? F rom El Salvador Amado (#2) was ripping it up in the Mexi-Log-Fest.  We love this photo.  It's impossible to tell if he's walking forward or backwards.  Whatever he's doing it's stylish and looks totally amazing... B eautiful morning with fluky winds and textured sea surface.The air temperature was 65.0º and the water is 63.1º. Low tide was at 7:03am -0.3' and high tide will be at 2:18pm +3.4'.  We have a west swell out of 264º at 3.9' and it was bigger than that at 4' to 5' and breaking hard on all the sandbars...  Fun for the shortboarders, not so much for the longboarders...  AND a Happy Birthday to Chris Miloe who was out there representing the legends! P atty Ornellas (#3) from Saladitas was also in great form... A nd speaking of great form, our man Christiano was surfing like a pro and came in second place overall!  And actually this is kind of

Phrenetic Phriday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... W hy is this woman so sad (#1)?  Well, it might be because they called off the Mexi-Log Fest this morning because the surf failed to show up.  They're hoping things will be better mañana and our man Christiano (#2) can win the whole enchilada.  Beside the enchilada there is a purse of pesos being dangled in front of the competitors... F ew clouds this morning and 15 miles visibility.  Winds were offshore and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 58.9º and the water is trying at 64.5º.  Low tide was early at 5:01am -0.6' and high tide follows at 11:46am +3.4'.  We have a SW swell out of 225º at 3.6' and it was 4' to 5' with some nice corners.  Not as wild as yesterday and a lot more organized.  The weekend should bring it's own brand of weekend warriors, so bring your smile and social distancing board... W hat magic is this man (#3) con-templating? ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!

All Along The Watchtower Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... W ind was blowing from the get-go this morning, straight out of the west and up to no good...  It was partly cloudy this morning and Scotty (#1) was dodging outsides, the chop and a rising tide.  The air temperature was 61.4º and the water is 64.0º.  High tide was at 10:24am +3.5' and low tide will be at 2:47pm +2.2'.  We have a west swell out of 274º coming in at 4.6' and it was 4' to 5' and stuck in the machine-wash cycle...  Tomorrow is supposed to be offshore and we hope cleaner... " W hen I disappear, It is clear I am up to no good" Speaking of "Up to no good" Clarke discovered this piece of tweaker poetry Sharpied™ on the bench (#2) at the checkout spot on the pier.  Why did they let us in on their secret?  Maybe they though we wouldn't tell... T hen we have Mr. Christian (#3) glued to the nose on this little sneaker at the Mexi-Log Fest in Sayulita.  He had the citizens on the beach rioting and coming totally apar

Talisman Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... F ive years ago today in San Chappelle (#1) on a skate through France.  No idea how it fared in the fire that gutted Notre Dame, since it's almost connected... Z ack getting ready to skim a left all the way to the pier (#2).  This morning was the last day of Surf Class and it seemed a bit of an anachronism...  Seemed like ended before it started...  But it was clear and cloudless this morning and winds were calm.  The air temperature was 58.3º and the water is 63.9º.  High tide was at 9:43am +3.5' and low tide will be at 2:18pm +2.1'.  We had a hefty SSW swell out of 200º at 3.9' and it was 4' to 5' with some thick outsides...  Fun, but you could get worked! J ah Morgan, the Professor and Chelé (#3) doing their best in B & W... (#4) H ere we have Jah Morgan and Soraya hanging out in Santa Barbara.  Soraya has been traveling and last winter got some great shots of Nazaré.  In fact she's taken some great images as she's moved back

Meatloaf Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... M eatloaf wasn't mentioned until 1899... W hy is this man laughing (#1)?  Well, this fellow is Coach Avery, RUHS Surf Coach extraordinaire and he just realized that tomorrow is the last day for surf class this year.  We all know what a crazy year it's been, so his glee is understandable... C loudy and drizzle this morning with 5 miles visibility.  Winds were brisk out of the southeast and the sea surface was rippled.  The air temperature was 60.0º and the water is 64.4º.  High tide is at 9:01am +3.5' and low tide will be at 1:50pm +1.8'.  It's a SSW swell out of 200º at 3.6' and it was 4' to 5' with some long walls and gray sneaker sets.  We decide not to go and then immediately felt guilty.  We had breakfast at Good Stuff to add to our guilt.  On a more positive note, we were able to discuss with Bacallao some of the logistics for the Pride Tower at 13th St.  We'll let you know how that's going, but you can start being as p

Ja Ja Ding Dong Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... H ere we have LoLa (#1) checking out the double-competition stripe Barahona that they're getting ready to ship out.  You gotta love those classic lines!  Thinking that would be a good look on our next blade... O vercast this morning and 9 miles visibility.  Winds were fluky and started out from the southeast and wound up straight out of the west at 3 to 5kts.  The air temp was 60.0º and the water is 62.2º.  Low tide was at 11:34am +0.6' and high tide follows at 6:26pm +4.8'.  We have a SSW swell out of 193º at 3.9' and it was 3' to an occasional 4' sneaker.  Cool and a bit walled, but still fun... T hen there's this three-stringer Rick (#2) that's been hanging in the polishing bay for years.  Who knows if Mangiagli would ever part with it.  Fred is pointing to the nose that had been painted with Slip-Check™ (as was popular in that era) and took some effort to get it removed.  This could be a real beauty with a little attention... J

Who Ate All The CoCo Puffs Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... W e took a turn up the coast and got into Oregon and some of the spots up there.  The wind appeared to be howling onshore, but when we got to Gold Beach (#1 & #2), the headland jutted out to sea causing this rivermouth to be facing northwest.  The result was an almost perfect offshore situation with the wind now howling out to sea!  There was one guy out and he was concentrating on the left, but there was also a right that ran right off the river and into a sand bar.  If you judged things incorrectly, you could find yourself headed down river to the end of the jetty where it was overhead and wind-blown ugly.  If you could watch this spot for two weeks we have no doubt that you would see every combination that it had to offer.  Considering the wind was blowing at 20-25kts and the water was 48º it was good the sun was out... O vercast, cloudy this morning and the 62.4º water and the 58.0º air sucked the warm out of everything.  Low tide was at 10:43am +0.3'