Surfing's Not A Sport Wednesday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

"Surfing's not a sport! It never was! You can try but you can't make it into one. It's something else. It's like the pixie dust gets scattered in your eyes, and I dunno, it's got you."
Greg "The Bull" Noll...
(#1 airborne at Waimea Bay)

Tandis Morgan wrote in:
Lots of stories indeed… I grew up hearing my dad's favorite, which he recounted again tonight. It was from when Greg gave my dad his first job sanding boards in his factory and it highlights Greg's sometimes macabre sense of humor…A guy named Ricky James who also worked in the factory accidentally sawed off his thumb. When the doctor couldn't sew it back on, Greg took it back to the factory before Ricky had anything to say about it, plopped it in a Dixie cup with some resin and made himself a new paperweight. Being quite the conversation piece, he kept it around the shop for quite a while even though Ricky was less than happy about it. Not sure if my dad was there on that exact day or not, but it sure left an impression on him! Seems to me that was Greg's thing… leaving an impression!
(Also, you forgot LA County Lifeguard in your introduction of Greg Noll!)
(This also happens to be our favorite story!  Ricky James went to Redondo and his Dad owned "Juicy James Hotdogs" where Good Stuff is today.  His sister Carrol lives on 10th in the little beach cottage with all the whirligigs!)

Gray this morning with less than 10 miles visibility.  Winds were variable from the SE to the NW and the sea surface was textured.  The air temperature was 64.3º and the water is 66.9º.  Low tide was at 8:50am +0.3' and high tide is at 3:52pm +4.4'.  We have a west swell out of 260º at 3.6' and it was 3' to 5' with some crunchers again this morning.

#2)  "No Diving, No Alcoholic Beverages, No Animals...etc.  AND apparently NO LEASHES, as demonstrated by Jah Morgan (#3)...

A report mañana, then we'll be out for a couple of weeks to Oahu to recon the West Side and the North Shore.  Miloe tells us that Chun's and Ewa Beach were both on fire this morning...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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