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Showing posts from August, 2018

Fantasy Land Friday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... J ane Miho, one of the Mermaids who swims from 10th St. most mornings sent us some info on early women surfers.  One of the earliest women who helped bring back the sport was Princess Ka'iulani (#1).   "Princess Ka'iulani also helped revive the sport in Hawaii around that time (1880's) and even brought it to England , where she surfed the English Channel . Tragically, she died at age 23 in 1899 of inflammatory rheumatism, just a year after the United States annexed her kingdom."  She probably fell ill from that cold English Channel water... S unny with 10 miles visibility through a bit of early morning haze.  Winds started off offshore by 3.7kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp dropped again to 61.9 and the water is also down to 66.0 taking a 4 degree hit.  Low tide was at 6:26am +1.5' and high tide followed at 12:57pm +4.9'.  We have a west swell out of 269º at 5.2' and it was 3' to 5' with some real thu

Never Don't Give Up Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... I t's late and we were looking at one of those pop-up ad slide shows that feature all manner of oddities including Wal-Mart patrons, prom mistakes and bizarre wedding photos.  #1 was in the "tattoos gone wrong" slide show.  If you're amused by double negatives, then this will tickle you...  If not, you might consider this for your next ink job... P artly cloudy this morning burning off early.  10 miles visibility.  Winds were out of the SW gusting to 5.2kts early and trying to blow out the show. The air temperature was 69.1 and the water is 70.0, although it felt warmer in the surfline.  Low tide was at 5:29am +0.6' and high tide brims at 11:48am +4.8'.  There's a west swell out of 269º at 3.3'.  It was 3' to 4' and you either had to hit it early or hide from the wind... H ere we have Amado from Punta Roca, El Salvador.  He's on the Barahona Team.  He came close to shooting the pier on a couple of lefts and we asked

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  http://centre.eversen.se Frank Paine    

Tooth & Nail Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... T his composite photograph from space (#1) shows the temperature and distribution of various aerosols in our atmosphere.  The blue-white patches over the oceans are storms.  They show blue and white because of the salt content in the atmosphere above the disturbances.  The white dots over the continents are courtesy of the Edison Company and our our penchant for light pollution.  More troublesome are the yellow/orange patches, which indicate fires.  In central Africa they are the mainly the product of farmers burning the chaff from their crops.  Something they've done for centuries.  In the western United States they are the wildfires that have been raging mostly out of control... C loudy again this morning and about 6 miles visibility.  Winds were out of the east, light early and freshening throughout the morning to 10kts.  The air is definitely cooler in the morning with a 66 this morning and 71.1 in the water.  Low tide was early at 5:03am +0.3' and h

Score One For The Moose Monday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... H eading back to the lodge after a successful day on the hunt...  We can't wait to see the trophy head on the wall... C loudy this morning with 5 miles visibility.  Winds were variable out of the SW to 3.7kts and the sea surface was textured.  The air was a relatively cooler 67.2 and the water is 71.2.  High tide was at 10:52am +4.7' and low tide will be at 4:23pm +1.6' as the tides flip for this week just after the full moon.  We have a west swell out of 271º at 3.3' and it was 3' to 4' and some corners through the gray... S uzi, Jah Morgan and Doc Snow (#2) mug for the camera.  .  Doc was having a hard time hearing so Jah grabbed his good ear and yelled.  Looks like he's enjoying the stimulation...  You never know who's going to show up at these gatherings.. (#3) N atasha at the ready for her initial assault after her spa date...  Things are always better after you've been waxed... ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix

Blame It On The Forefathers Friday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... F rom a year ago today we have the meat of our Cuban sandwich, José Bacallao (#1), bottom turning to victory.  We have been asked where he's been lately?  Is he going surfing tomorrow?  Is he wearing that blue stingy brim fedora?  Simple answer:  We don't know... C ooler this morning at 67.5, cloudy and winds out of the south by 3kts.  The water temp was 73.8 and the sea surface was mostly smooth with a rather annoying bump.  High tide was at 9:41am +4.3' and low tide will follow at 2:47pm +2.0'.  We are getting a west swell out of 260º at 3.3' and no one can seem to tell us if it's hurricane abetted or just bumped from the winds on the outer waters.  It was a steady 3' and everyone seemed to get some waves although there was a fair amount of scratching going on... P addle, paddle, paddle...  No one does it better than Jah Morgan (#2), no one... A s most of you know Boomfwappa will be moving to Parker, Colorado this September to conti

Yet Another Throwback Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... W e're all over the map here, so let's start at "Brother's Longfellow" or "Sister's."  (#1) From L. to R. we have Kira Bones, Bacallao, Marian, Jetski (bleeding from the neck), Kaitlyn, Suzi and Clarke leaving the scene of the crime...  This was on May 25th before summer officially kicked in.  Check out the outfits; it was still chill enough to warrant Pendelton's, beanies and fur collars... F ive miles visibility under partly cloudy skies.  Winds were calm and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 70 and the water is 73.8.  High tide was at 9:16am +4.2' and low tide will follow at 2:15pm +2.3'.  We have a SSW swell out of 195º at 2.6' and it was a inconsistent 2' to 3'... " S herman, the Wayback!"  April 1992, Jack Carlisle's paddle out at the Cove.  From L. to R.:  Easky, the Coach, Big Wave Dave, Dr. Snow, Boomfwappa, the Professor, Dono, Forest, Matt and Ned "Growler"

Wasting Away Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... A ll trash, all the time...  In photos 1,2 & 3, we have some of our favorite images from the mean streets of Hermosa.  #1 This should have been part of Monday's photo grouping.  It features the garbage juice running into the gutter...  smells vile, with just a hint of asphalt and a finish reminiscent of brake lining...  #2 is our personal fave...  It features that green hunk of algae or what Danger Boy would term "plant material."  Rotting paper bag, cigarettes and feathers add to the already poignant image of a culture in decline.  #3 You lose a glove how?  Your hand shrivels up and it falls off?  You needed a five fingered balloon, immediately!  The patient ran away and it fell out during the escape... M eanwhile, the ocean temp has plummeted to 79º and we're all looking for our 4/3's...  Partly cloudy this morning with winds variable out of the SE to 2.7kts.  Visibility was 10miles.  The air temperature was 70.3 and considering the w

A Tottering Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... Y ou know how things just sort of happen all at once, making it kind of difficult to wrap your head around what's going on...  It started with SeaWolf showing up at Greenbelt during happy hour.  Almost seismic.  He just walked through the door and there he was!  Amazing!  We were so flummoxed that we didn't even get a pic...  But he looked good!  We actually saw him checking out the surf the next morning, but Buck had to get to back to the inland empire and time was at a premium...  Then this morning we're moseying past the surf conditions chalk board (#1) and we get stopped dead in our tracks by the water temp.  Previous high, 76º and they we're showing 80.  Being the skeptics we are, we hailed the lifeguard.  He came out and we asked him if someone had stolen his chalk?  He said that they had checked the temp twice from the end of the pier and it was 80 both times...  More Amazement...  If things keep up like this Lethal Keithal will join us so

Man Of Mystery Monday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... S o if the surf seems a tad small, it's because Aubrie just got her new board (#1) and the surf always gets small when you get a new board...  Actually, she's kinda liking the smaller stuff, before things go crazy... O vercast with 5 miles visibility and winds out of the south-east by 4.5kts.  The sea surface had some stiff texture to it.  The air temperature was 70.2 and the water is 73.4.  High tide was at 7:33am +3.6' and low tide will be at 12:02pm +2.7'.  We have a SSW swell out of 196º at 2.3' and it was a fun 2' to 3' with some nice little runners up to the sand... R ené often gets some nice photos from her perch high atop the pier.  This one (#2) of B$ (read as: "B" Money) or Jetski is especially evocative...  You can feel the pent up energy, the possibilities, the low tide... B obby Warchola was on a rant about the garbage all over the streets this morning.  If it stayed on the street that would be ugly, but cool wi

Another Fearless Friday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... (photo #1) W e can only imagine that the admonition to use caution had to do with the posted 76º water temp, "Watch out you might scald yourself!"  Then of course we had to ask, "Is it temperature hot or spicy hot...?" T his (#2) is the ever popular "Ham Sandwich" pose popularized by Lance Carson in the "Endless Summer."  Arguably, our own Christian Stutzman makes it look even more casual, if that's possible... This was yesterday and 9 out of 10 waves were lined up and closed out.  On wave after wave Christian and MoMo managed to find the corners and exploit them to their advantage...  Fun to watch... Speaking of fun it was medium to good fun out there this morning although the waves were less than cooperative.  It was muggy and overcast with scarcely 6 miles visibility and the wind was already out of the west by 2kts.  The sea surface had a bit of texture, but was closer to oatmeal (lumpy) than velvet.  The air was 71

Misdemeanor Theatrics Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... ... A lways wanted to be a Monarch. I n all honesty the surf wasn't that good today.  But it goes to show you that the proper crew can make any day fun...  It was overcast and less than 7 miles visibility, but that didn't stop Doc Scale from making some of those flushing drops!  Winds were from the south by 2 to 3kts and the sea surface was smooth, as Boris predicted in his spot-on evaluation of the morning.  He was practicing his kick-outs before he really needs them this winter.  Jah Morgan and Christian were enjoying the 74.3º water and the 69.3 air was perfect.  They have now been regularly ending up in the top three places of all of the contests they've been entering!  And it's so nice that they're just regular people... well, okay, they're not that regular...  Low tide was at 7:33am +1.1' and high tide follows at 2:11pm +5.1'.   We have a SSW swell out of 210º at 2.6' and we'll call it a low tide cracking 2' to 3

Where Were You When The Dam Broke Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... I f you haven't been to the Broad Museum yet, you should get some tickets and head up there for the current set of shows.  Despite the new additions, we're pretty taken with some of the original installation, like this Haruki Murakami mural (#1 detail), that basically covers creation and beyond... L ow tide often brings low expectations, but there were a few grovelers this morning as the sun tried to burn through the persistent overcast.  Around 8 miles visibility and winds were fluky out of the south.  The sea surface was slightly bumped.  The air temperature was 69.0 and the water is a delightful 74.1.  Low tide was at 6:49am +0.4' and high tide will be at 1:19pm +5.1'.  We have a SSW swell out of 195º at 3.3' and it was 2' to 3'.  Fun if you could find a corner and if not, you were flushed from the bathroom of happiness... R ecognize these guys? (#2)  You would if you'd been driving in 1969 and stopped into "Hazen's (F

Tortoise And The Hare Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... T he Dutch Girls, under the table (#1)  Little Dutch Girls, big table... V isibility was 8.7 miles under a hazy summer sun.  Winds were fluky on shore by 1 to 3kts and the sea surface had some texture.  The air was a bit cooler at 63.3 and the water is 73.6.  Low tide was at 6:08am -0.3' and high tide will be at 12:33pm +5.2'.  We have SSW swell out of 209º at 3.3' and it was 2' to 3' and bumped but there were corners on the odd set and some little grovelers on the inside...  We were groveling... A nother one for the vault (#2):  Lance Hopkins, Buck, George Wolverton, Jim Cubberly, the Professor...  50 years later and all of these guys still hit the waves.  Lance at Carlsbad, Buck down south, George at Malibu, Jim at Ventura and the Professor south of the Hermosa Pier... A couple more of the Dutch Girls (#3 & #4) ripping up Sapphire...  We're hoping they will introduce surfing to Holland, so next time we're there we can hit the Zu

Munchin' On A Monday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... L ow tide this morning (#1) with some lines from the SSW.  Yesterday, the tide push really helped and the wind held off until late.  Some long lefts and Boris got the dump for an especially lengthy zipper that took him almost to the pier...  A good time was had by all... H azy sun this morning with 9.9 miles visibility.  Wind was annoying out of the WSW at 3.7kts and the sea surface was textured.  The air was 64.5 and the water is 73.9.  Reports from Scripps pier last week had the temp all the way to 80, making it the warmest water ever recorded in California since they've been keeping track (101 years).  Low tide was at 5:28am -0.8' and high tide was at 11:50am +5.1'.  We have a SSW swell out of 201º at 3.3' and it was 2' to 3' and if you could pick a corner you could get a little spinner without getting turned inside out yourself... R eunions.  Always interesting and with this group never dull.  From L. to R. we have Buck Delameter, Lon

Totally Enthralled Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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  Lost Boys & Co... Y ep, we'll be camping in Kings Canyon next week and we'll be taking a break from the Surf & Culture Report...  Here we have a photo from a similar trip, about 1978 with a rather hirsute Professor and a smiling Julia...   Okay, she's always smiling...  A little windy early on this morning, calming down to about 3kts at 8:00 with a slight ripple on the water.  The air temp was 68.3 and the water is still 71.1.  Low tide at 7:16am +1.0' and high tide follows at 2:01pm +4.4'.  We have a SSW swell out of 193º at 3' and it was all of that and a little fatter on the outside...  The Dutch girls are still hanging in there... (#2) H e's watching you...  The piercing gaze of Jetski... C harlie (#3) swings her arms for a little speed in the Sapphire shorebreak... M eek (#4) using that ankle control on a fast little right...  When they get back to Holland all they'll remember about surfing is, "Paddle, paddle, paddle..." ✠ &qu