Fantasy Land Friday Surf & Culture Report

 
Lost Boys & Co...

Jane Miho, one of the Mermaids who swims from 10th St. most mornings sent us some info on early women surfers.  One of the earliest women who helped bring back the sport was Princess Ka'iulani (#1).   "Princess Ka'iulani also helped revive the sport in Hawaii around that time (1880's) and even brought it to England, where she surfed the English Channel. Tragically, she died at age 23 in 1899 of inflammatory rheumatism, just a year after the United States annexed her kingdom."  She probably fell ill from that cold English Channel water...

Sunny with 10 miles visibility through a bit of early morning haze.  Winds started off offshore by 3.7kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp dropped again to 61.9 and the water is also down to 66.0 taking a 4 degree hit.  Low tide was at 6:26am +1.5' and high tide followed at 12:57pm +4.9'.  We have a west swell out of 269º at 5.2' and it was 3' to 5' with some real thumpers.

From this angle on the pier (#2) it looks like Mr. Christian is riding a non-existent wave.  It was 3' to 4' and this turned into a pretty nice shoulder...

Oops! is the least you could say about this disaster (#3)...  We're not even sure he spelled Holly right...  The good news is that he has more arm left and another on the other side...

Jah Morgan floating into a little right-hander south of the pier...  Like always, making it look effortless...

We'll have the report through Tuesday of next week, then we'll be heading out to find where east meets west...  We'll be exploring the eastern Mediterranean, the Aegean and that hidden right under the bridge at the Bosporus...  Reports will be sketchy, when they appear, but expect us to fill you in on our findings around Oct. 4th! 
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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