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Showing posts from June, 2020

Total Eclipse of the Brain Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... L et's get right to the heart of the matter.  Maybe it's not that we should be tearing down statues, it might be that we put the wrong ones up in the first place.  Take for instance our submission from Kolby Holdsworth (#1).  An excellent choice and no confederate general has ever won a Grammy... A n excellent day of surfing and ocean going.  Plenty of visibility under cloudless skies and variable light winds predominantly out of the west.  The sea surface was smooth with some ripples later in the morning.  The air temperature was 63.3 and the water was 66.7.  High tide was at 6:21am +3.6' and low tide will be at 11:42am +1.4'.  There's a SSW swell out of 205º at 3.3' and it was 3' to 4' with some nice waves early getting a tad faster as the tide dropped.  Quite a gathering including Doc ?, Jetski, Ronnie Garcia, Jah Morgan, Tarsan, Donnie and the Professor all keeping appropriate unsocial distancing.  Tenth St. had some really nice

Blue Hole Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... A t 5:30am we were trying to figure out why the sprinklers had gone on on the great south lawn of the Mar y Fuego Estate.  LoLa looked out the window and said, "It's raining!"  "Imposserous!" said the Professor, "It's June 29th and we can have overcast but rain is strictly forbidden under the Treaty of Ghent, article 32, #14."  He reluctantly got up to take a look and had to admit that it was, in fact raining.  But what does one do when it's raining?  One goes surfing (and hopes that he meets two and three and maybe four and five.)  By the time we arrived in Hermosa ( THE ) Beach there were patches of blue sky (#1) and things rapidly improved, except for maybe the wind got a little more enthusiastic and things bumped up a bit.  The air temperature was 62.8 and the water is 66.7.  Low tide was at 10:49am +1.0' and high tide will be at 5:42pm +5.3, in time for dinner.  We have a SSW swell out of 195º at 3.3' and it w

Free-Floating Anxiety Friday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... T oday marks 15 weeks since we've started our response to the Corona Virus pandemic!  When's the last time you did something this religiously for 15 weeks?  And of course with the help of the fine burghers in Orange county and other spots that decided they'd had enough of the decidedly minimal personal restrictions, like wear a mask and keep an unsocial distance between themselves and their infected brethren, we've (California) had a pretty steady uptick.  Honestly, we understand the difficulty shutting things down causes businesses, schools and houses of worship.  But you know, as a human race we've been dealing with these pandemics for several millennia.  In the past they've wiped out millions of our ancestors and we can only imagine they'd cringe at the way we're finding this such an inconvenience.  It's like the inconvenience of "grazing" an iceberg to the passengers of the Titanic...  "The lifeboats?  They

A Willy-Nilly Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... I t was gray and cool this morning as we strolled along the pier (#1).  Winds were out of the WSW by 3kts and the sea surface was slightly rippled.  Visibility was in the 5 to 10 mile range and it got better as the morning progressed and the overcast burned off.  The air was 63.0 and the water was 65.8.  Low tide was at 6:36am -0.8' and high tide is at 1:30pm +3.7'.  Minus tides in the a.m. for the rest of the week for your clam digging pleasure.  We have a SSW swell out of 194º at 2.3' and it was 2' with some low tide ankle busters... J ah Morgan (#2) making some tight little turns in this cool fish-eye view.  Looks like she could easily surf the Idaho standing wave.  You know the funny thing about that wave in Idaho?  It doesn't have a name.  It's not like the "Potato Bowl" or "First Reef Boise" or "Flushers."  Those Idaho folks are missing a bet here.  Next time we're up there we're going to call dib

Touch & Go Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... O vercast this morning with 5 miles visibility.   Winds were light out of the WSW at 3kts and the sea surface was a bit rippled and got smoother as we let the tide come up and the wind subside.  The air temperature was 63.3 and the water is trying at 66.6.  Low tide was early at 5:53am -0.9' and high tide washed in at 12:40pm +3.3'.  We have a 3.6' swell out of SSW 200º and it was 2' to 3' and pretty fun as Jetski, Tarsan, Doc ?, Jesse Rae and the Professor can attest.  It didn't look that good (#1) but it was lots more fun than it looked... #2 features Jah Morgan rocketing into a glassy little wedge looking fast, fashionable and fabulous...  Look at all those little details, like her outstretched right palm reaching ahead for maximum paddling power and her steely concentration on the wave ahead.  There's that inhalation before catching the wave and those shoulder-flexors waiting to spring her to her feet...  Take this photo, blow it u

Still Hungover From Father's Day Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... Our stated purpose in going to Idaho this time was to find the famous "standing wave" on the Boise River and record it for posterity and salve our rampant curiosity.  Honestly, we were tired of staring at our Hula Girl mug (#1) and dreaming of Hawaii.  Now of course, the fam in Idaho was most gracious!  There was a birthday party for Scarlett (actually two), There was a golf outing for the fathers, present and pending and of course a delicious feast to celebrate the event...  But we were itching to see this hydro-phenomenon and we headed down to the banks of the Boise for a look.  But first, a stop at the "Yardarm Pub" for some suds and banter with Anaconda Burke (who's hair is perfect #2)... Overcast this morning back in the So. Bay and 5 miles visibility.  Winds were out of the SW by 2.1kts and the sea surface had the slightest ripple to it.  The air temperature was 65.0 and the water is slowly moving up the charts to 66.7.  Low tide was

Right On! Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... S ee if you can identify the participants in Tuesday evening's vigil for George Floyd.  Many thanks to José Bacalao and his group of organizers.  Everything went on without a bump and there were several moments that were absolute magic...  Speaking of "bump"  "BumpSetServe" or Paul Roustan took the fabulous photos were running today...  Maybe the biggest shoot he's done with people wearing clothes in ages...  Participant #1:  You got it!  Joey Anderson! #2 T he Professor ripped off the Shepard Fairey Obama red/white and blue poster style (who had ripped off photographer Mannie Garcia) and went for the George Floyd Portrait... B efore we forget the surf today was small but fun.  We found Eric Barton, the Professor and Jetski leaping about in some waist high, low tide smackers.  It was hazy sun and barely 10 miles visibility.  Winds were light offshore and the sea surface was smooth to glassy.  The air temperature was 64.0 and the water i

Fast In The Morning Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... I t's blowing a gale out there this morning and if you want to go surfing be prepared to get out of the water considerably farther south than you went in...  Right now it's howling out of the NW by 15 to 25kts and the sea surface is sporting white caps as far as you can see which is about 20 miles.  Clear skies and 64.3º in the air and 61.7 in the water.  Low tide was at 6:17am -1.1' and high tide foams up on the beach at 1:06pm +3.8'.  We have a west swell out of 259º at 5.2', but it's anywhere from 4' to 7' and wild and crazy...  Kinda like you... W e were going through the files and last year at this time we were reconnoitering Slovenia and the Croatian coast.  We didn't find any surf, but we looked at this drop (#1) in the Julian Alps.  It could'a used a tad more snow, but it was cool to check out the take-off spot...  Then we headed over to the Communist headquarters in this old castle (#2) where Buck and LoLa we worrie

John The Conqueror Root Friday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... O ne way to stay safe is to get behind great quantities of plywood (#1) and hunker down...  Of course on our bike ride this afternoon, people were on the beach, in the water and cruising down the Strand.  This morning we had gray skies and 10 miles visibility in an excellent example of "June Gloom."  Winds were from the SSE at 5kts and it was smooth to glassy.  The air temp was 63.3 and the water was an advertised 66.4, but it didn't feel that warm and it was a bit chilly in a springsuit.  High tide was at 10:19am +4.1' and low tide follows at 3:09pm +1.7'.  We have a SSW swell out of 205º at 3.3' and it was an honest 3' with some thicker outsides... G reat, now Santa Claus is pissed off (#2).  One of the reasons has to be that there he stands on his balcony and the polar ice cap has melted!  We can imagine that the barber pole they use to mark the location of the earth's axis is now floating down to the tropics somewhere...  Why

Power To The People Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... H undreds of people in Hermosa take a knee (#1) to protest police brutality and stand in solidarity with those who've demonstrated across the country.  It was an excellent example of a peaceful, non-violent protest...  Many were angry, but they didn't let that get in the way of their primary purpose...  M ostly sunny this morning with 10 miles visibility.  Winds were variable onshore and the sea surface was lightly textured.  The air temperature was 64.5 and the water is 62.1.  High tide was at 8:29am +4.1' and low tide will be at 1:48pm +1.1'.  We are enjoying a SW swell out of 220º at 2.6' and it was 3' with some little mushburgers for your sliding pleasure...  Maybe more mañana... A tradition in the Professor's family is the making of Grandma Eva's beans.  Here (#2) we see the Professor demonstrating the proper technique for rendering pepper corns... W hatever you happen to be doing, it's more fun if water is involved (#3). 

Your Love Is A Hurricane Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... Y ou all remember LAX.  That's Los Angeles International Airport, a designation that suggests if you show up there you can expect a fair number of people heading to spots all over the world.  On this last Thursday morning at around 7:30am the only person we could find in Concourse #5 was LoLa (#1) waiting for her Americano outside the Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf.  We jostled each other to the gate in order to provide some semblance of normalcy...  Likewise, when we returned on Sunday, the only people in the concourse were those getting off our plane from Boise.  Naturally, we were met with the curfew and being 6 o'clock on the dot, we had to wait for half an hour for an Uber driver to materialize... P artly cloudy this morning with 10 miles visibility.  Winds were variable onshore from the start and the sea surface was a bit bumped.  The air temperature was 61.9 and the water was 60.1 and Tarsan trunked it.  High tide was at 7:27am +4.1' and low tide is a

Another Monday In America Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co... Words are difficult today...  so rather than blather on, we have copied Martin Luther King's "Letter From A Birmingham Jail" for your consideration.  Dr. King's eloquence, over 50 years ago, is just as poignant and profound today as it was then...  His fear of a "racial nightmare" seems alarmingly close as little has been done to ameliorate many of the same problems with which we still struggle...  "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!! "Letter from a Birmingham Jail" 16 April 1963 My Dear Fellow Clergymen: While confined here in the Birmingham city jail, I came across your recent statement calling my present activities "unwise and untimely." Seldom do I pause to answer criticism of my work and ideas. If I sought to answer all the criticisms that cross my desk, my secretaries would have little time for anything other than such correspondence in the course of the day, and I would