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Showing posts from September, 2022

A Tropical Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co... A beautiful day here on the west side of Oahu, Hawaii.  Light Trade Winds and a bit of texture to the water getting more bumped as the morning progressed.  Surf was in the shoulder to head-high range and the water is about 83 to 85 perfect degrees.  The air is also a comfortable 80 degrees and not particularly humid.  We had a couple of photos to share, but we're not conversant with Bruddah Miloe's computer to the point we can attach them.  Might just have to wait until we get back to the mainland... "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!

Miloe Bay Friday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co... W e  are here at Miloe Bay and it's kinda like you thought it would be.  The trades are blowing, the tide is relatively low and we're heading for "Flies" in a few moments.  We surfed White Plains yesterday in a relentless inside of white water from here to the end of the Hermosa Pier.  Then in a moment that was nigh unbelievable, there was a lull and we made it to the outside!  Head high on the outside and bigger further out, we caught our share of fatties and behaved in a reserved and appropriate manner.  Only spazzing out when we got to shore and we were sharing our rides with Bob and Bill Mason...  Like rookies... When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!

Half-A-Loaf Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... W hat's better than getting a great wave?  Having your friends see you get that wave, that's what.  Could there be anything better?  How about you catch the biggest wave that came through all day (honestly overhead by at least a foot, maybe two), your friends see you take off and then they see you pig-dog the drop and get hit by a double up and watch you hang on all the way to the bottom as you augur into the pit AND THEN you come up with your board in two (count'em) pieces! (#1)  The citizens on the beach and on the pier (and probably someone flying overhead) saw Aaron get said wave and cheered his attempt.  But alas, he then had to walk down the blue brick road with what was left of his ride.  If you recollect, this was the board he got from Tamara (#2), and it always looked like it wanted to be paddled... A bit bumpier this morning than yesterday and a bit more size.  Tides were high in the morning and a freak rain squall passed through around sunr

Salamugundi Monday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... T aking the big drop (about 45 floors), we watched these window washers (#1) high above 53rd St. in New York, plying their trade and trying hard not to look down...  Just like taking off on a 400' wave, that's all... G lassy, small conditions this morning with winds light out of the east.  High tide was at 8:05am 3.9' and it stayed high all day.  The water was a delightful 72.5º.  A SSW swell at 3.0' and the waves were 2' to 3' and a bit crashy, but if you could get in early, you had a chance.  It was just too pretty to stay out of the water... T his guy (#2) kept watching us the entire time we were eating lunch at the Salamugundi Club.  We were scouting artists for Joe Anderson's new gallery and had lunches with a couple of prospects...  Next time could we sit somewhere without a gargoyle? S ome of the NY Crew (#3) L. to R. Sancho, Suzi, LoLa, Joey and Tarsan.  Shown here hiking along the High-Line Park. Most of the folks were going to

The Umbrellas Of Sapphire Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... I n ancient times, no one used umbrellas because they were all trying to get tan.  Now, everyone is aware that too much exposure to the sun can cause cancer and put holes in your tan like Miloe and Donny have in their legs (shoulders, heads, backs)!  Here (#1) we have the umbrella'd vista from Saphy to Ainsworth...  Of course our crew (#3) shunned the use of the umbrella(s) and sat out uncovered for a chunk of the afternoon, jumping in intermittently to cool off...  (From l. to r.: Ginny, Burnsy, Chrissy, Eddie and LoLa.) A n amazing morning with 15 miles visibility under a hazy hot sun.  The air at checkout was 71.5º and the water was a refreshing 68.5º.  High tide was at 8:08am +4.6' and low tide is at 12:35pm +2.7' going to a rocking +6.2' high at 6:46pm.  There was a SSW swell out of 200º at 3.3' and it was fun with some long walls and crystal clear water! C arnage!  That's the best way to describe the shorebreak yesterday at Sapphire (

Sometimes On Saturdays Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... A hot one today and the fire in Castaic was visible from the beach as we took a bike ride to cool off.  The water was a chilly 65º on the inside this morning as the crew gave Longfellow a chance to avoid the crush of the Fiesta Hermosa.  Winds were calm and the sea surface was smooth to glassy.  But the SSW swell was hitting the beach at just the proper angle to insure some dumpers and quick drops.  It was 3' to 4' and inside-out Hermosa style... O ne good electromagnet and this entire pole is coming down (#2).  Boris wondered which nail was the first.  We suggested that they had removed that nail and it was now enshrined in the Smithsonian.  Our personal fave is that turquoise tack 3/4 of the way down...  Took some courage to throw some color up there... ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!

Late For Summer Thursday Surf & Culture Report

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Lost Boys & Co... C lear, windless morning with 20+ miles visibility (#1).  The air temp was 64.9º and the water in the surfline was 70.0º.  Low tide was at 6:20am +1.6' and high tide followed at 12:57pm +5.2'.  We had a west swell out of 262º at 3.6' and it was 3' to 4' and a tad walled, but not enough to keep Jah Morgan from scoring some standout outside rights all the way to the beach...  Looking like the goddess she is... T he RUHS surf team decorated their boards with Kalea's (#2) name in her honor and posed to show their love and support for the Avery's.  It is with the utmost sadness that we report that Kalea lost her valiant battle with brain cancer yesterday.  We will keep you apprised of any services, paddles, etc.  Let us renew our resolve and remember that Nono is still in the grips of therapy and the family continues to need our support... 💔 "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!