Half-A-Loaf Tuesday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

What's better than getting a great wave?  Having your friends see you get that wave, that's what.  Could there be anything better?  How about you catch the biggest wave that came through all day (honestly overhead by at least a foot, maybe two), your friends see you take off and then they see you pig-dog the drop and get hit by a double up and watch you hang on all the way to the bottom as you augur into the pit AND THEN you come up with your board in two (count'em) pieces! (#1)  The citizens on the beach and on the pier (and probably someone flying overhead) saw Aaron get said wave and cheered his attempt.  But alas, he then had to walk down the blue brick road with what was left of his ride.  If you recollect, this was the board he got from Tamara (#2), and it always looked like it wanted to be paddled...

A bit bumpier this morning than yesterday and a bit more size.  Tides were high in the morning and a freak rain squall passed through around sunrise leaving us with this happy sign to go surfing (#4). Skies cleared and there was no wind, but the swell was hitting the sandbar leaving not much room for error (note Aaron).  It's a SSW swell at 3.3' and because of the angle it was 3' to 4' with the occasional board buster.  Have to note that Chris Miller, Tarsan, Doc?, Rock and Perk all got some great waves!

Yes, under the capitol dome, in Washington DC, abides this statue of the great King Kamehameha (#3).  Someone regularly comes down and puts a new ti leaf lei in his hand every week or so.  So we'll be hauling off to the islands mañana to visit the united kingdoms and pay tribute to the real King (not that silly pretender in England).  Be back early October to pick up all the pumpkin spice stuff we can grab at Trader Joe's...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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