A Phenolic Friday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

StormSurf® (#1) is telling us that it's going to be small and confused over the next few days.  We've got wind, rain and oddball tides during this period.  This morning we had cloudy skies and 10 miles visibility with the sun poking out at odd times during the day.At checkout we had 10 miles visibility and the wind changed early gusting to 15kts mid-day.  The air temp was 50.0º and the water is holding at 59.5º.  High tide was at 4:26am +4.7' and low tide was at 12:11pm +0.9'.  We have a WSW swell out of 248º at 3.3' and it was 3' to 5' and still lined up and crashy like it's been for the last week...  Let's see what the new weather patterns have in store for the surf...

Back in Ko'Olina we grabbed this snap (#2) of Bruddah Miloe and the old growth redwood board that his brother-in-law sculpted.  It looks to be about 8'6" and is a perfect dagger.  Finished to a mirrored perfection it's really a gem...

We've yet to call (#3), but we're pretty sure that who ever answers won't care...

Bidding aloha to the Miloe's, we'll leave you with this sunset (#4) off Miloe's point.  Despite the fabulous sunset, what you really have to notice is the set coming through to the right.  When it's big enough you can surf it out on the second reef.  We'd love to try it, but it hasn't quite worked while we're there.  The biggest problem isn't the wave itself, but getting in and out through the narrow shorebreak.  You can see how rocky it is at this wider spot and about fifty yards north is a notch that feeds the runoff from the west side of the property.  It's not as rocky but tends to ping-pong you through the keyhole...  Still it looks like it might be worth the excitement...

"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!






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