The Almost Right Word Wednesday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

"The difference between the right word and the almost right word is the difference between lightning and the lightning bug."
  Mark Twain

These lefts (photo #'s 1 & 2) kept marching through the south side of the pier.  To his credit, Zac Seeger was in the water at 5:30am and could barely see, but he says it was great and got better as the tide rose.  To be sure it was cold, like 49.9º in the water and 57.4º in the water with an offshore wind blowing at 14kts.  The sea surface was burnished with that stiff breeze and made for some spectacular manes on the waves.  High tide was at 7:45am +6.1' and low tide was at 3:03pm -1.1'.  We had a 3.6' swell out of the west at 270º and it was 4' to 7' with one set of way overhead outsiders that Mr. Christian managed to snag the lead wave, while the rest of us practiced diving in our much-too-buoyant wet suits.  A character building experience...

Not quite as significant as the left that Doc ? (#3) got and rode all the way to the pier.  When we say all the way to the pier, we mean ALL THE WAY TO THE PIER, as in running the nose of your board into the piling.  True he had Sarah Foley close on his tail, how dare she take off behind him, but he wasn't going to give way and managed to not only hit the pier, but land on the sand and use his kidney to break off his fin.  A true multi-tasker he's really giving Danger Boy a run for his legacy...

Later, at the fan club (#4), Doc ?, the Professor and Mr. Christian, properly masked and socially distanced, met to recap the days events...

(#4)  Alas poor Bernie, we knew him well...

"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





Popular posts from this blog

Duke Of Wellington Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... P rofessor, This is a shot taken last week at a secret spot that is less than 30 miles away from you guys. Any guesses?  My buddy Dave sent it from Salta Verde Point on the backside of Catalina. Only accessible by boat or if you know someone with the key. Tip: The guy in the pic is the guy with the key! Sea Wolf... S o, apparently if you decide to leave Avalon and head to the backside you might score on a south swell.  For some reason this place looks like there might be some rocks on the inside.  No indications of that other than the boils following the guy with the key... C loudless skies this morning with 20+miles visibility.  Winds were off to 2.2kts and the sea surface had a residual bump that held all day.  The air temperature was 79.3˚ and the water was 66.4˚, apparently affected by the wind and upwelling.  High tide was at 6:55am +3.9' and low tide will be at 11:46am +2.8' for a little less than a foot differential.  There's a SW swell out of
Read more

Wasting Away In Margariitaville Saturday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... S ancho, on this morning's Sruf Familia thread said it best, "Somber rainy day for Jimmy."  J immy Buffett died Friday, September 1.  He was 76 years old and had recently been struggling with health issues.  A Lost Boy of the first order his music was the sound-track for our lives. B ut he might have said it best: "But there's one particular harbor/ So far yet so near/ Where I see the days as they fade away/ And finally disappear." S ail on Jimmy Buffett and we hope on the corner of that one particular harbor there's a wave that you can surf through eternity.  Aloha Jimmy... ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!
Read more

Not Forest Hills Friday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... W ho's behind those Foster-Grants?  Well, we'll bet that he's NEVER worn a pair of F-G's.  Are those Oliver People's?  Cartier's, Garrett Leight's?  We'll say Tom Ford's and he should be their poster boy.  Yep, it's Jetski in the arena at the US Open.  Looking rather trim in his court-side togs, we're waiting for his description of the action... W e continue our assault on some of the smallest waves ever ridden!  We'll have to check the Guinness book, but we think we're on to something.  So it was ten miles visibility under partly cloudy skies and winds were offshore by 5 to 7kts.  The3 air temp was 63.9º and the water was 70.7º at the ever popular #46221 Santa Monica Buoy.  High tide was at 11:01am +5.5' and low tide follows at 4:52pm +0.7'.  It turns out we observed that low tide and even with the afternoon south wind howling around 10kts, Sapphire still looked fairly smooth.  We had a south swell out o
Read more