Enormous Expectations Wednesday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

Yes, it was big.  Photo #1 is the face of one of the sets.  It was easy double-Overhead.  Actually, the white water was double-O and #2 is a pretty solid indicator of the size and power of this swell.  If you were unlucky enough to get caught inside there was some great leash testing going on...

The morning dawned gray and cool with high clouds and 10 miles visibility.  Winds were off from the NE at 3 to 8kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temperature was 51.5º and the water is 58.3º.  High tide was at 5:20am +5.2' and low tide will be at 12:53pm +0.3'.  There's a west swell out of 265º at 5.9' and it was twice that big in the surf line at 6' to 12' and extremely few corners.  All morning we saw three waves ridden with any success at all.  But some of the wipeouts were unbelievable! 

Setting up for some smoking action on the inside (which seconds before had been the "outside"), here we see a number of brave chargers doing their best to get over, through or under this set wave (#3).  There was some scratching going on when this big one showed up coming through the middle...

In the midst of all this carnage, Sapphire (#4) looked like Lake Tahoe.  People kept pulling up, jumping out of their cars, looking, then jumping back in to look further down the beach...  Not a clue what it might be like tomorrow, but we'll take a look and let you know...                    
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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