De Facto Friday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

(NOTE:  Took a Covid test this afternoon and tested positive.  I've been wearing my mask, washing my hands and trying to be responsible, but apparently I have failed.  I have a bit of a cough and a runny nose, but other than being pissed off that I have to isolate, I feel fine.  I will annoy you with updates as my condition changes😖.)

Surf is still good size.  10 miles visibility under cloudy skies.  Winds were offshore by 2 to 3kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 55.0º and the water is 57.9º.  High tide was at 6:33am +5.6' and low tide follows at 2:05pm -0.4'.  The buoy was 3.6' on a west swell out of 262º and that translated to 4' to 6' walled up, waffly lines...

Zack Siegel was on fire this morning (#1)!  This thing walled up and covered him for a good three seconds, which of course seems like an eternity when you're in there.  He usually rides long boards, but because of the size of the surf he decided to go to a mid-size and obviously had good success with that choice.  He rides for Dan-C...

José Bacallao (who rides for Barahona), scored this great painting (#2) by David, the Italian artist who often paints plein-air on the Strand and the Esplanade.  Prominent in the piece is the Pride Tower, which Izzy Bacallao had a central part in creating.  Somebody is going to have a big surprise!

Was time for a freshy and the Professor met up with José for a shaping session (#3).  José, always the consummate gentleman, let us steady the foam while he mowed some magic.   Now we all know that he can do just fine by himself, but he's so nice that he let us pretend to help!  It's another 9' 6" Bullet Model with down turned rails up-front and a thumb-tail, single fin...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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