Inexpugnable Thursday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

#1)  This wave would've been a stretch even if you had jets or were towed in...  It was pretty anyway...

Swell was still pumping this morning as we checked to see if it were docile enough to venture out.  It was gray and cloudy and threatened rain on and off all day.Winds were variable, between 2 to 3kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temp was 55.6º and the water is still holding at 58.1º.  High tide was at 5:57am +5.4' and low tide followed at 1:31pm -0.1'.  We had a west swell out of 264º at 4.9' but it was focused on Hermosa driving it up to 5' to 7' and some crunchy outsiders...

#2)  Second wave of a five wave set that had the pier shaking.  Well overhead, it had a pit that you could ride for several seconds if you were in the right place.  We watched Julian Rodriguez on a foamy get bounced on a right and then get smoked as he tried to paddle back out.  The third wave landed right on his head and pulled his leash out and tore off his fin.  We watched him swim back in, but in a matter of minutes he had ditched his board and was out body surfing and catching some of the mackers.

You might consider yourself a yakker, but you'd have to get up awfully early to get the jump on these two!  #3 Is Billy McIntosh and he's currently riding a 7'8" dagger that gets him everywhere he wants to go.  There's still no one better a big Sappharua than Billy Mac.  Mike Purpus (#4) was sporting a concoction of baby oil, talcum powder and secret ingredients to keep the sun off.  In the 15 minutes we talked to these two they covered every rideable spot from Ventura to Indicators and had apparently surfed every one in the last two days.  They had gone to the Cove together a couple of days ago and had prepped mainly on Red Bull and out-paddled all of the younger crew by yards...

The "No Plan B" stickers have arrived (#5) and if you'd like a couple the Professor could be persuaded to part with a few.  The art work is by Steve O'Brien and we're finding them in the most unusual places...  They were advertised as board friendly...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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