Another Throwback Thursday Surf & Culture Report

 
Lost Boys & Co...

Before the Big Island blew it's top we were hangin' with this wahine just north of Hilo, surfing Honoli'i rivermouth and Kalapana black sand beach...  Hilo and Honoli'i are still there, but the beach at Kalapana is under tons of lava and this wahine is now 47 and some change...  1972 and that's Julia Burke in the grass skirt...

Hazy sun on a beautiful spring day and 15 miles visibility.  Winds were off, then turned to the south and finally came out of the west in earnest at 5.9kts.  The sea surface had a slight roll.  The air temp was a chilly 52.9 and the water is 59.4, but felt warmer.  Low tide was at 5:37am -1.2' and high tide fills in at 12:08pm +3.9'.  We have a west swell out of 260º at 3.9' and it was a solid 4' and some good surf...  Check'um mañana!    

Jetski getting his suit tweaked for the big day (#2).  Looks like he and Natasha are getting serious...  A Jonesea Suit® being custom fitted right on the beach!  Looking uber dapper in the fedora...

The Professor and a twelve year old Luke "The Rock" Maggio taking a break from Carve-boarding in the Palos Verdes Alps.  This is the day when we first let the Rock drive the X-Terrible to the bottom and pick us up.  We got up to the top and told him It was his turn to drive to the bottom of the hill.  He was stoked!  We were just getting ready to launch when a PV cop pulled up and told us he had gotten a call and we couldn't skate there.  We talked him into letting us have one more run and promised him we'd leave after that.  (Luke has just parked the car at the bottom of the hill.)  Then the Professor suggested that he join us on the last run.  (Luke can now see in the mirror the cop talking to us.)  The constable deferred suggesting he'd love to try sometime, but not today...  As we skated down all you could see in the mirror were Luke's huge eyes 👀!

✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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