It's A Mastodon Monday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

So, in case you were wondering, it was Takayama who came up with the tear-drop concave on the Nuuhiwa Noserider.  Takayama, Nuuhiwa and Mike Eaton shaped the first few and then Eaton and Dan Bendicksen were the production shapers during it's initial run.  How do we know this?  At Sonny Vardemann's 85th Birthday Party we made sure we sat next to Bing (Copeland) (#1) and asked him some of these pressing questions.  We also didn't realize that Bing and Sonny, Greg Noll and all those guys who charged the big waves started out in 1955 at Waikiki enjoying the fun surf and warm water.  It wasn't until later that they ventured to the North Shore and scared the shit out of all the rest of us who came along later...

Gray this morning with 3 miles visibility under cloudy, at times drizzly, skies.  Winds were shifting early and the sea surface had a bit of a bump.  The air temperature was 54º and the water is just touching 60º.  We have a west swell and it was 3' to 4' with some almost head-high outsides!  Burnsy by popular acclimation got the wave of the day, a long left that unwound in various stages for about a hundred yards.  The citizens are the pier were hooting and carrying on...

The Professor and Jetski (#2) toast to #50 and prepare to eat themselves into a food coma at Momsy's.  It was a five course meal prepared largely by Momsy herself, including the marinated lox and all of the marinated veggies.  It wasn't until the final course that Clark𐐁 (#3) threw on the filet tips and destroyed everyone's hopes of eating sensibly...

Sancho (#4) and his daughter Cora's entry into the "Boards Across Hermosa" contest.  Oil paint with clear auto epoxy finish it's currently in Brother's on display.  These boards will be auctioned off at the Hermosa Memorial Day Fair and the proceeds go to the artists!  "Do I hear $2,000?"
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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