Surf Wisdom Wednesday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

The moon peeking through the trees this morning (#1)

Who said, 

"There's something valuable about learning in slow motion.  You have to be really precise.  I think that translates into going faster on bigger waves, a bigger canvas. There's a benefit go the number of rides you get, growing up where there are short-interval waves.  Especially a beachbreak, because it's not just one spot - it breaks anywhere and you learn different angles, and you take notice of little rips and the effect the previous wave had on the wave you're on.  You find the energy.  You're always looking for a little more pocket of energy or speed, to refine what you're trying to do."

Yep, Kelly Slater said that about growing up in Florida where you might argue has even worse waves than we do.  He took, what seems like a real disadvantage, and turned it into a learning situation.  You gotta imagine Kelly knows what he's talking about.  We can't all be Kellys but we can profit from his wisdom! 

Mostly sunny skies this morning with 10 miles visibility.  Winds were calm early and the sea surface had a bit of a roll to it from yesterday's wind.  The air temperature was 47.3º and the water is 55.2º.  High tide was at 9:21am +5.1' and low tide was at 3:43pm +-0.0'.  We have a bumpy WSW swell out of 250º at 3.9' and it was 3' to 5' close to the beach...

Millie and Lilly (#2) the next generation...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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