Go Figure Friday Surf & Culture Report
Lost Boys & Co...
Couldn't have said it better than Robert Stassi:
The Great surf recession of 09. El Nada. "I did not quit surfing, surfing quit me" Bob Stassi
That was until yesterday... The surf started to move late Wednesday night into Thursday morning. It started at 1.3' and by 8am yesterday it was already at 3.6'. Then it started cranking: 4.6', 4.9', 5.2', 5.6', 5.9', 6.2', 6.6'. Of course the rain started as well and if the storm drain issue clouds your thinking about it, you DO have a problem. Let's look at the stats.
We have 3 miles visibility and cloudy rainy skies. A couple of patches of blue have cruised through, but it's mainly stormy. Winds started out of the south and by now are pretty much out of the west by 11.7kts, gusting to 15. The sea surface is starting to chop up. The air temp is a temperate 55.9º and the water is still 58.5º, but you can probably expect that to drop with the influx of colder northern water. High tide is at 6:01am +6.3' and high tide will follow at 1:29pm -1.3'. So if you want to see some ledging tubes make it down to the beach after lunch! The buoy is reading a 260º swell at 6.6' and holding steady. We're calling it 5' to 6' and except for the wind it looks "interesting." A few guys out, but it's not like it's straightened out yet. Patience...
Just to give you an idea we attached a couple of photos. The Sapphire shot is kinda weak, in that we didn't catch the peak coming right through the middle there. There's a tiny speck of a guy sitting right on the take-off spot (look close.) The Topaz side shows a bit of the size, although it also shows how ragged it is as well. Tomorrow could be a really good day!
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
Couldn't have said it better than Robert Stassi:
The Great surf recession of 09. El Nada. "I did not quit surfing, surfing quit me" Bob Stassi
That was until yesterday... The surf started to move late Wednesday night into Thursday morning. It started at 1.3' and by 8am yesterday it was already at 3.6'. Then it started cranking: 4.6', 4.9', 5.2', 5.6', 5.9', 6.2', 6.6'. Of course the rain started as well and if the storm drain issue clouds your thinking about it, you DO have a problem. Let's look at the stats.
We have 3 miles visibility and cloudy rainy skies. A couple of patches of blue have cruised through, but it's mainly stormy. Winds started out of the south and by now are pretty much out of the west by 11.7kts, gusting to 15. The sea surface is starting to chop up. The air temp is a temperate 55.9º and the water is still 58.5º, but you can probably expect that to drop with the influx of colder northern water. High tide is at 6:01am +6.3' and high tide will follow at 1:29pm -1.3'. So if you want to see some ledging tubes make it down to the beach after lunch! The buoy is reading a 260º swell at 6.6' and holding steady. We're calling it 5' to 6' and except for the wind it looks "interesting." A few guys out, but it's not like it's straightened out yet. Patience...
Just to give you an idea we attached a couple of photos. The Sapphire shot is kinda weak, in that we didn't catch the peak coming right through the middle there. There's a tiny speck of a guy sitting right on the take-off spot (look close.) The Topaz side shows a bit of the size, although it also shows how ragged it is as well. Tomorrow could be a really good day!
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
