Terra Incognita Tuesday Surf & Culture Report
Lost Boys & Co...
We checked it out at the usual time this morning and decided the wind was a bit of an issue. So we got gas, went to Trader Joe's and then we cruised by and looked at it again. WAIT A MINUTE! The wind had changed direction and all of a sudden it started looking like it was getting BETTER. We snapped this photo of Topaz and Sapphire as it was turning...
As clear as a bell at 25 miles and not a cloud in the sky. Winds were out of the north and then switched to almost offshore for about an hour and a half around 9am. The sea surface had a bit of a roll to it and the buoy said the wind was 5.2kts from the north. The air temperature was 51.8º and the water was comparatively warm at 56.1º. High tide was at 9:14am +6.3' and low tide is at 3:55pm -1.1'. The buoy was reading a 6.9' swell out of 274ºand we're calling the waves 5' to 6'..
So we hit the surf as the tide began to drop and got Sapphire with some big foamy outsides every 3 or 4 minutes. We could see the guys at Topaz over the rocks every time a set would roll through. A lot of crud in the water - plastic, foamy shit, balloons, ribbon and bows (like a wedding shower got washed overboard?) and the usual milk and coke bottles. It wasn't all-time but it was pretty fun! (Except for all the crap.)
The other shot is the bottom of Tyler Russell's board. The Professor is doing a montage of local So. Bay icons including a lifeguard tower, El Burrito Jr. and Dono's house where Tyler spends most of his time learning at the feet of the master.
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
We checked it out at the usual time this morning and decided the wind was a bit of an issue. So we got gas, went to Trader Joe's and then we cruised by and looked at it again. WAIT A MINUTE! The wind had changed direction and all of a sudden it started looking like it was getting BETTER. We snapped this photo of Topaz and Sapphire as it was turning...
As clear as a bell at 25 miles and not a cloud in the sky. Winds were out of the north and then switched to almost offshore for about an hour and a half around 9am. The sea surface had a bit of a roll to it and the buoy said the wind was 5.2kts from the north. The air temperature was 51.8º and the water was comparatively warm at 56.1º. High tide was at 9:14am +6.3' and low tide is at 3:55pm -1.1'. The buoy was reading a 6.9' swell out of 274ºand we're calling the waves 5' to 6'..
So we hit the surf as the tide began to drop and got Sapphire with some big foamy outsides every 3 or 4 minutes. We could see the guys at Topaz over the rocks every time a set would roll through. A lot of crud in the water - plastic, foamy shit, balloons, ribbon and bows (like a wedding shower got washed overboard?) and the usual milk and coke bottles. It wasn't all-time but it was pretty fun! (Except for all the crap.)
The other shot is the bottom of Tyler Russell's board. The Professor is doing a montage of local So. Bay icons including a lifeguard tower, El Burrito Jr. and Dono's house where Tyler spends most of his time learning at the feet of the master.
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
