Theosophical Thursday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

Dammit!  All we wanted was a Coke™!  At least they were GIANT meal worms...

Whales all the way to the horizon this morning, so the 11 miles visibility we had was way plenty to catch their antics.  Partly cloudy skies and a bit of haze.  Winds started out onshore by 5.2kts and the sea surface is sporting a light tack.  The air temp at checkout was 60.2° and the water was 61.5°.  High tide is at 10:23am +6.1' and low tide will follow at 4:38pm -0.0'.  A pretty significant tidal swing!  The buoy is reading a west swell out of 269° true at 3.0'.  The tide is floating it here until a couple of hours after mid-day, so it's 1' to 2', with a bit of chop.  The afternoon could bring some better conditions if the wind lays back or you can find something in the lee of the WSW winds...

Mailer Demon:

LB et al,  We're about 3 weex away from the official start of autumn.  I've lived coastal, from Del Rey to Manahappenin, to Redondo, since 1970, prior to  that nearly coastal in good ol' Deadchester since '54.  I'm going on record that this has been the worst summer  weather [too mild] that I can recall.  Boo.
Paver
(We concur...  read on...  Ed.)

Septem-Brrr
Danger Girl
(We like it and we're going to use it!   Ed.)

Aloha Lost Boys & Co.  from KoOlina (West shore) Oahu,
Temps 84-89, Water 77 - 82, Sunny and scattered showers, flat N shore for great diving, S shore 1 -3 (hip to head high)....day after day after day!  Hawaii tourism was way up for last report in July...the reason...lots of people want to go on the vacations they have been putting off.....And, Oahu, Kauai and to lesser extent Maui are running super travel package specials.  If you are thinking of coming to Hawaii, it may be time to check the web sites.  Normally the surf is better at this time of year on S and W sides but as with S Ca it is not happening.  S swells usually follow our pattern with waves from the S lasting until late Oct.  Later in Oct, and really starting in mid Nov the N swell activity steps up so the surf returns to N and W shores. 
Mahalo....Chris Miloe

Love all the shaping room shots, check out Greg Noll . COM   Shaping with the surf Pioneers. I loaned two "crap" box 8 MM cameras to  BongoJim, when he was going up to shoot Greg and this:
Pioneers of California Surfing used heavy wooden surfboards to ride the waves. In March of 1991, three of these pioneers; Doc Ball, Lorrin Harrison and LeRoy Grannis traveled to Greg Noll's shaping room in Crescent City, California. They worked with Greg shaping redwood surfboards that represent their own personal boards of the 1930's. Click on the appropriate button for video. 
http://www.gregnoll.com/shaping_with_pioneers.htm

Interesting bit of history that was almost gone forever had Jimmy, not made the effort and drove his huge school bus up there. Some other video on Graig's site is cool as well !  Some where we have footage Phil Becker shaping a board in his shaping room around 90 0r 91. I shot this for SURF PATROL, my short lived "TV" Channel 10 Hermosa Beach show.
Da Sawmi
(The modern history of our sport is amazingly available!    Ed.)

Looks like Spock's coffin in his (almost) last Star Trek movie.   I hope that observation doesn't put some sort of hex on ya Prof.  But if so . . . can I have your coffin . . . I mean stick?
Big Daddy
(According to legend you're supposed to pile the board high with firewood, place the body on top, light the whole thing and then send the flaming blade out to sea.  Vikings, Portagees, Phoenicians...  they all do it...   Ed.)

Since we are now seeing Blue Whales in the area,  does that mean other critters might begin to show up?  Are we now going to see oh, I don't know,  maybe sharks of different varieties?  And if we do,  and if they begin to look for something for breakfast,  I am assuming they could never mistake a shinny black bottom longboard for something edible.  
Mike G
(Shit!  We hope not!  Of course that obviates the need for the whole Viking sendoff...   Ed.)

"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!

 




 




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