Always Trust Your Cape Thursday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

For lack of a better name, "The Three Amigos."  You have to understand that before 1986, they would have been the 
"Three Musketeers."  Still they would have trusted their capes....

From the Miloe unit...
Had four days of surf at La Salidita...actually first day Paul and I and others went to the Ranch and it was big but great.  Went back the next day and saw surfers being transported from here to there with the sets and water movement and said NO way are we going out there....probably could not have made it out anyway.  So Saliditas the rest of the time.  Too big really but surfable for me...I could and did sit out to sea and ride mostly set waves so not too big.  But not as much fun as when it is smaller
 
Yesterday...missed 5 + set..Paul got two waves and Little Brede (his is big ..scotty the younger one) got the other...I was wrong placed...but then big set...Paul says GO Go and i did....but late..hanging too high...walked up forward and started down... made it with big turn and then up and going...tried to make the big inside section where most of the surfers hang and take off at this size...did not make it....turned and the set wave of white water c ming at me so had to dive under three waves...then pulled on my leash to get my board...which had a particularly bad look in the water..kind of a V shape with nose and tail up.  ripped the remaining glass and had my two parts.  Pushed in the nose and rode the tail block piece...long ways and paddle. made it.  Gave two pieces to Lourdes nephew who has his rental place there...Jesus...and he lets all of the local kids ride his boards for free.  I told him to fix mine,,keep it,,and keep letting the kids surf. 
 
Took Uke and practiced for 11 minutes.

Partly cloudy skies this morning, struggling to let some sun in the early part of the day.  12 miles visibility.  Winds were off to calm and the sea surface was oily, with a slight roll.  Air temp was 59.4˚ and the water was 65.5˚.  Warm enough for Marissa, Eli's sistah to trunk it.  High tide is at 9:03am +4.0' and low tide will follow at 2:10pm +1.3'.  Currently the swell is backing off, but we had a SSW pulse out of 202˚ at 5.2' this morning.  We'll call it 3' to 5' and pretty good.  Good enough, where Danger Boy got one of his best waves ever (top 5?) at Sappharua.  On a ledging right hander he took a late drop and managed to whip up enough speed on the bottom turn to project himself through the first section and then across the middle and finally right up to the rocks.  If he had kicked out, he might have just arced over the rocks and kept going...
✠

"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
                                                   The Professor!!

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