Wooden Board Wednesday Surf & Culture Report
Lost Boys & Co...
Today, it's wild and crazy out there, but Saturday - Ah, that was a different story. Photo #1 is a portrait of the pensive Danger Boy. He had just been run over by a negligent kook and suffered a couple of fin cuts in the nose of his board. We were going to say "his nose," but knowing DB's proclivity for personal injury we felt we had to make it perfectly clear. All foam, no blood. Then in photo the second we have Birdie sizing up the caliber of this cylinder, trying to decide if he should insert himself into the barrel or skate around it. Hitting the afterburners he made it with room to spare. Finally, we have the Professor, with a rather determined look on his face, slipping underneath this foam patty on his way to the corner of this geometry problem. Having fun with math!
Windier than shit this morning, with winds consistently in the 15 to 20kt range. The sea surface is well chopped, with white caps beginning to show. Everyone is calling for the wind to let up tomorrow - it's been blowing for 4 days straight - we'll just have to see if the hawk got the memo. All this blowing makes for excellent visibility, with 25 miles under a cloudless azure sky. The air was a chilly 52.5° at checkout time and the water is till down at 57.2°. We keep waiting for it to pop 60 and stay there, but apparently it's not ready yet. High tide is at 8:47am +3.7' and low tide will be at 1:57pm +1.5'. The 46221 buoy is reading a 6.6' swell out of 266° W. With all the bumpiness and cross chop, we're calling it 5' to 8', along with some rogue outsides that are cleaning off the top of the jetty.
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
Today, it's wild and crazy out there, but Saturday - Ah, that was a different story. Photo #1 is a portrait of the pensive Danger Boy. He had just been run over by a negligent kook and suffered a couple of fin cuts in the nose of his board. We were going to say "his nose," but knowing DB's proclivity for personal injury we felt we had to make it perfectly clear. All foam, no blood. Then in photo the second we have Birdie sizing up the caliber of this cylinder, trying to decide if he should insert himself into the barrel or skate around it. Hitting the afterburners he made it with room to spare. Finally, we have the Professor, with a rather determined look on his face, slipping underneath this foam patty on his way to the corner of this geometry problem. Having fun with math!
Windier than shit this morning, with winds consistently in the 15 to 20kt range. The sea surface is well chopped, with white caps beginning to show. Everyone is calling for the wind to let up tomorrow - it's been blowing for 4 days straight - we'll just have to see if the hawk got the memo. All this blowing makes for excellent visibility, with 25 miles under a cloudless azure sky. The air was a chilly 52.5° at checkout time and the water is till down at 57.2°. We keep waiting for it to pop 60 and stay there, but apparently it's not ready yet. High tide is at 8:47am +3.7' and low tide will be at 1:57pm +1.5'. The 46221 buoy is reading a 6.6' swell out of 266° W. With all the bumpiness and cross chop, we're calling it 5' to 8', along with some rogue outsides that are cleaning off the top of the jetty.
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
