Around the World Wednesday Surf & Culture Report
Lost Boys & Co...
Three more photos from last Saturday's session at Secrets. No.1 is Domenic Bruzzese on a long right wall. He's on a new board of his own design (with some help from Ché) and was excited to be ripping on his new stick. No. 2 is shop foreman Steve Huante, doing the long glide on his Barney purple board. Steve is also a great guitar player, who recently morphed from heavy metal to a decidedly folk-tinged approach. We heard him last week at The Breakwall, for a fund-raiser where he was demonstrating some fine chops. No. 3 is Danger Boy doing a bit of a left-go-right as he waits for this wave to rare-up a bit. See that look on his face? He can smell retirement. His surfing has already improved just thinking about it...
Overcast this morning with 6 miles visibility. Winds were calm to 1.1kts out of the NE and the sea surface was glassy. The air temperature was 63.2° and the water was 65.1°. The tide chart looked like an outline of a Porsche 911 with a high at 7:06am +3.6' and low tide at 10:47am +3.2'. The swell was out of the SSW 199° at 2.6' and we're calling it 1' to 2' with some bigger, albeit, wally outsides.
Heard a timely water safety lecture this morning by Lifeguard Captain, Mike Enscore. He focused on being prepared before going into the surf. Some of his points:
☞Understand the dynamic nature of the ocean and how it can change.
☞Know the tides. It can make a big difference during a session.
☞Learn to recognize rip currents. They can obviously be dangerous, but they can also be used to get out quickly or find some rideable corners! Look for their obvious sources near storm drains, holes or some of the jetties.
Our LA County Guards average 9,000 to 10,000 rescues a year. Of the group of high school students that were present, a third of them had participated in rescues. It's always a good idea to consider our environment and the challenges that it often presents! ✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
The Professor!!
