Testing, Testing Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

Here we have a photo of Danger Boy checking out the Cove.  I am going to tell you this story and you might be inclined to call bullshit, but I swear it's true.  But first...

Overcast skies this morning with 3 miles visibility, pretty hazy.  Winds were onshore early 5.1kts out of the SW.  Light chop on the sea surface.  The air temperature was 57.9° and the water was 61.2°.  Low tide was at 5:55am -1.5' and high tide was at 12:27pm +3.9'.  The buoy was reading a 3.9' swell out of 198° SSW.  We're calling it 3' with the occasional fat outside.

We got down to the Cove around 8am this morning after looking at all the beach breaks and Rat.  Nothing looked quite right.  So we head up the hill and we pull over at the Cove path and there's this old guy with a Greek surfboard and a shabby wetsuit coming up the hill.  When he gets to where we're standing, Danger Boy says, "How was it?"  The guy grumps a bit and says, "It was okay, but the tide is starting to kill it.  Probably good for another 20 minutes..."  We both look at our watches and we're thinking, "What's this guy jabbering about?"  It's a rising tide and it's only going to get better for the next couple of hours.  At this point we get to the lookout spot and it's breaking in the middle and there are these nice little waves and there's NOBODY out.  The south cliff is blocking the SSW wind and it's way glassy.  We look around and now we're the only car on the entire side of the hill.  We almost knock each other over running back to the car.  We slide into our wetsuits and grab our boards and in no time we're doing the rocky path buccaneer dance and down at the water.  We look around.  There's nobody out and no one coming down the path.  We paddle out through the kelp and it's so oily the water looks like it's oozing around us.  The sky is gray, the water is the same velvety gray and the kelp looks like it's floating in the air.  The entire scene looks like a National Geographic special.  We get out into the lineup and there are these two to three foot waves and maybe four foot outsides.  We surf for about 30 minutes before we see a couple of folks walking down the path.  It takes them another 20 minutes to finally get out to where we are and it's two ladies who were just really chill and weren't that interested in catching too many waves.  We surfed for a couple of hours and no one else came down.  It was like 1932.  We half expected to see Doc Ball on a redwood plank, with his SpeedGraphix in a box.  Special day it was! 
 ✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!

Popular posts from this blog

Duke Of Wellington Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... P rofessor, This is a shot taken last week at a secret spot that is less than 30 miles away from you guys. Any guesses?  My buddy Dave sent it from Salta Verde Point on the backside of Catalina. Only accessible by boat or if you know someone with the key. Tip: The guy in the pic is the guy with the key! Sea Wolf... S o, apparently if you decide to leave Avalon and head to the backside you might score on a south swell.  For some reason this place looks like there might be some rocks on the inside.  No indications of that other than the boils following the guy with the key... C loudless skies this morning with 20+miles visibility.  Winds were off to 2.2kts and the sea surface had a residual bump that held all day.  The air temperature was 79.3˚ and the water was 66.4˚, apparently affected by the wind and upwelling.  High tide was at 6:55am +3.9' and low tide will be at 11:46am +2.8' for a little less than a foot differential.  There's a SW swell out of
Read more

Wasting Away In Margariitaville Saturday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... S ancho, on this morning's Sruf Familia thread said it best, "Somber rainy day for Jimmy."  J immy Buffett died Friday, September 1.  He was 76 years old and had recently been struggling with health issues.  A Lost Boy of the first order his music was the sound-track for our lives. B ut he might have said it best: "But there's one particular harbor/ So far yet so near/ Where I see the days as they fade away/ And finally disappear." S ail on Jimmy Buffett and we hope on the corner of that one particular harbor there's a wave that you can surf through eternity.  Aloha Jimmy... ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!
Read more

Not Forest Hills Friday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... W ho's behind those Foster-Grants?  Well, we'll bet that he's NEVER worn a pair of F-G's.  Are those Oliver People's?  Cartier's, Garrett Leight's?  We'll say Tom Ford's and he should be their poster boy.  Yep, it's Jetski in the arena at the US Open.  Looking rather trim in his court-side togs, we're waiting for his description of the action... W e continue our assault on some of the smallest waves ever ridden!  We'll have to check the Guinness book, but we think we're on to something.  So it was ten miles visibility under partly cloudy skies and winds were offshore by 5 to 7kts.  The3 air temp was 63.9º and the water was 70.7º at the ever popular #46221 Santa Monica Buoy.  High tide was at 11:01am +5.5' and low tide follows at 4:52pm +0.7'.  It turns out we observed that low tide and even with the afternoon south wind howling around 10kts, Sapphire still looked fairly smooth.  We had a south swell out o
Read more