The First Of Fogust Thursday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

Well here we are, the first of Fogust.  Someday we'd like to be on the Firth of Forth on the First of Fogust.  An alliterative dream of ours.  And not only is it overcast, but it's not warm at all.  Let's look at the stats...

We'll give it 10 miles visibility even though it's pretty hazy and overcast.  Winds are onshore 1 to 3kts and the sea surface is slightly textured.  The air was 61.1º and the water is a chilly 63.5º.  On the cusp of sleeves or shorty.  High tide was at 9:26am +3.9' and low tide will follow at 1:41pm +2.6'.  It's a SSW swell out of 193º at 2.3' and it was a rolling 2' with some almost corners.

We had a great conversation with S.J. Bacallao this morning about the local surf scene.  She's writing a piece for "Hermosa Magazine" (honestly we didn't know Hermosa HAD a magazine, but we're glad they do.)  She was asking "What do you think about when you're in the water?"  We found that passingly funny because this morning we were out there and the surf was small and we were trying to decide how to approach these little ankle biters.  We had been watching Joey Lombardo teach a class and it dawned on us that we might approach the surf like we were beginners (attached is a photo of a legit beginner #1.)  We started out deciding which waves were rideable.  "No that's just a bump, yes, this looks like it has some push!"  Then we reassessed our position on the board.  "Hey this is really small, we need to get that nose flat in the water, head down and paddle like you mean it."  Jokingly, we always say the three things you have to remember in surfing are "paddle, paddle, paddle" well, that's no joke.  So we started keying on those basic elements and we ended up catching some ragged little insiders that thrill all of us beginners!  Cowabunga!

Word on the street is that Jetski will be joining us in the morning and we're all going to get back to basics.  Join up for some longboards, lips and laughs! 
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





Popular posts from this blog

Teach A Fish To Fly Friday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... Wouldn't it be nice to have some surf to report about?  The simple answer is "yes."  But, and it's a big BUT, we're going to forge ahead and give you the particulars anyway.  5 miles visibility and pretty hazy conditions although it looks like the sun is trying to melt the haze.  Winds were offshore by 1 to 3kts. and the sea surface is smooth.  The air temp was 64.5º and the water is 65.8º.  High tide is at 10:14am +5.6' and low tide follows at 4:55pm +0.6' (Maybe good for a walk on the hard sand.  Don't step on a bee.  Been lots of them on the shallow sand.)  SSW swell out of 206º at 2.3' and it was half of that on the beach.  Just to whet your appetite we've included this shot of the Professor in Nicaragua at "Soupbowls", or "Chicken Soup", or "Noodles".  They were all lefts... Some of you know that the Professor has sparred with some health issues recently.  He submitted this (Attachment) t
Read more

We Came On Different Ships, But We're All In The Same Boat Thursday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... F ound these cool sweatshirts (#1) at Spyder on the Plaza.  They show all of the cool South Bay surf spots and wave magnets.  We managed to get these cool women to show off the threads... H eavy overcast and not quite 7 miles visibility.  Winds were onshore by 2 to 4kts and the surface was generously textured.  The air was 58.5º and the water is 58.5º.  Overcast, windy and chilly, this isn't sounding great is it?  Low tide is at 11:46am +0.6' and high tide follows late at 6:44pm +4.3'.  It's a SSW swell out of 212º at 2.3' and that's about how big it was with a few fatter outsides. F or those of you who knew Brian Sullivan his funeral will be held at St. Lawrence Church at 1pm on Saturday.  Still can't quite believe he's gone... ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!
Read more

Riding The Gulf Monday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... Out on the Gulf of Mexico riding some interesting three footers in Freeport.  So here we are with the Maharishi after riding the outside at the "Octagon" jetty.  South wind is blowing at 10kts and it's bit textured, but it was fun and a great workout! More as we explore the area! Hope you all had a Happy Easter! "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!
Read more