Veteran's Day Wednesday Surf & Culture Report
Lost Boys & Co...
Well, we have some good news and bad news...
The good news is that no one got hurt:
A. Checking out the Avenues.
B. By falling off the cliff at the Cove the first time we looked at it.
C. Checking out Hermosa and slipping on the pier.
D. Because the Professor forgot his wallet.
E. Eating breakfast at Brother's.
F. Getting caught in the cross fire while they were closing Camino Real and the S.W.A.T. Team was moving in...
But before the bad news... You should know that visibility is sketchy all along the coast. It ranges from a mile or so, to about 50 yards in close. Winds are relatively calm and the sea surface has a deceptive glassiness to it. The air temperature is 61.2° and the water is 63.3°. High tide was at 5:14am +5.2' and low tide will be at 11:24am +1.5'. The buoy is reading a west swell out of 265° at 2.3'. The second time we checked out the Cove, the tide was lower and it was waist to chest high. Oh yeah, and there was red tide - NO! Wait... that was something else...
It was - the bad news...
Danger Boy (although he's not sure exactly what happened) took off on a wave, beat his board to the bottom and came up as it came down. Right on his Zygomatic Process (narrowly avoiding cleaving his eyebrow) to be exact. It was clear upon surfacing, that he would have to cut this session short and repair to the emergency room to get his head stitched back into it's familiar ovoid shape. The blood, to say the least, was spectacular. Having never actually surfed with Danger Boy, Alec Fenton remarked that he had never seen blood that color. Which is to say he had never seen that dark arterial blood, which typically remains on the inside, where it belongs. So they had to trudge back up the hill, load the surfboards, drive, unload the surfboards, get the Professor's wallet, head over to Danger Boy's house - BUT WAIT... They can't go straight to Danger Boy's house. The Redondo Police have Camino Real blocked off and the S.W.A.T. team is getting ready to swat an evil doer. Okay, an alleged evil doer. So, thankful that he got his wallet, the Professor and the crew have a quick discussion trying to decide if they should A. let the cops see the injured D.B. and tell them truth about his injury or B. hide him and hope they don't look in the back under the wetsuits or C. run the gauntlet and head to the emergency room and discuss it later. They chose B. and except for the cop saying, "Hey, your wetsuit is bleeding!" everything went just super-dooper.
Danger Boy is expected to make a full recovery and will be surfing with a Mexican wrestling mask (the Blue Demon) for the next two weeks.
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
Well, we have some good news and bad news...
The good news is that no one got hurt:
A. Checking out the Avenues.
B. By falling off the cliff at the Cove the first time we looked at it.
C. Checking out Hermosa and slipping on the pier.
D. Because the Professor forgot his wallet.
E. Eating breakfast at Brother's.
F. Getting caught in the cross fire while they were closing Camino Real and the S.W.A.T. Team was moving in...
But before the bad news... You should know that visibility is sketchy all along the coast. It ranges from a mile or so, to about 50 yards in close. Winds are relatively calm and the sea surface has a deceptive glassiness to it. The air temperature is 61.2° and the water is 63.3°. High tide was at 5:14am +5.2' and low tide will be at 11:24am +1.5'. The buoy is reading a west swell out of 265° at 2.3'. The second time we checked out the Cove, the tide was lower and it was waist to chest high. Oh yeah, and there was red tide - NO! Wait... that was something else...
It was - the bad news...
Danger Boy (although he's not sure exactly what happened) took off on a wave, beat his board to the bottom and came up as it came down. Right on his Zygomatic Process (narrowly avoiding cleaving his eyebrow) to be exact. It was clear upon surfacing, that he would have to cut this session short and repair to the emergency room to get his head stitched back into it's familiar ovoid shape. The blood, to say the least, was spectacular. Having never actually surfed with Danger Boy, Alec Fenton remarked that he had never seen blood that color. Which is to say he had never seen that dark arterial blood, which typically remains on the inside, where it belongs. So they had to trudge back up the hill, load the surfboards, drive, unload the surfboards, get the Professor's wallet, head over to Danger Boy's house - BUT WAIT... They can't go straight to Danger Boy's house. The Redondo Police have Camino Real blocked off and the S.W.A.T. team is getting ready to swat an evil doer. Okay, an alleged evil doer. So, thankful that he got his wallet, the Professor and the crew have a quick discussion trying to decide if they should A. let the cops see the injured D.B. and tell them truth about his injury or B. hide him and hope they don't look in the back under the wetsuits or C. run the gauntlet and head to the emergency room and discuss it later. They chose B. and except for the cop saying, "Hey, your wetsuit is bleeding!" everything went just super-dooper.
Danger Boy is expected to make a full recovery and will be surfing with a Mexican wrestling mask (the Blue Demon) for the next two weeks.
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
