Freight Train Tuesday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

DUDE!  It's macking this morning!  Not that it hasn't been good over the last week.  The first photo is from the Longboard Prelims on Wednesday at Hermosa Beach.  This hapless Redondo stud went in with one board and came out with two.  Actually, we heard a shortboarder asking if he could have the front half to make a little rocket.  The guy said, "No, I think I might try to glue it back together..."  We're thinking that won't work so well either.  He snapped it when the lip came down on him and the board, cleaving it right where he stood.

Cloudy with 10 miles visibility this morning and intermittent rain, heavy at times.  Winds were seriously offshore by 15.5kts and gusting higher.  The sea surface was smooth, buffed by the strong winds.  The air temperature was 53.6° and felt considerably colder with the wind and cloud cover.  The water wasn't bad at 58.5°.  High tide was at 10:44am +4.5' and low tide will be at 5:28pm +0.5'.  The buoy is reading a 9.5' swell straight out of the west at 270°.  It's all over the map breaking from 6'+ all along the avenues, to almost double-O at the points.  We saw some sets that looked like 20' breaking out at the Indicator.

Our second shot is of our old friend Leonard Treadwell.  Len and Don Swift were a couple of the only longboarders out at Topaz.  Mark the Poolman, Andrew Steich and the Professor were ping-ponging around second sand bar Sappharua.  After a couple of hours it got too cold so the Professor ran up, changed into his warmies and ran back down to snap some pics.  There were some good ones and this was about a medium sized left that Len snagged before the shortboarders could snake him.  Let's see what happens tomorrow!!

"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!


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