Put On Your Waders Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

 
Lost Boys & Co...

When life gives you stones, build a gate...  Playa El; Tunco, El Salvador...

20 miles visibility with a few high clouds.  Winds wee light offshore by 5.1kts and the sea surface was rolling glassy.  The air temperature was 50.9 (up 6 degrees from yesterday), but the water has stayed at 56.7.  5:54 am for high tide and it was a +5.5', but the swell still broke through.  12:11pm low tide at -0.5'.  Full moon on Saturday the 12th.  We have a WSW swell out of 251º at 3.0' and it was 3' to 4' and was "fun-lite" to actually fun...

Photo #2 was inaccurately labeled "Ripping."  It features the Professor, whose last instance of ripping involved an old Billabong wetsuit and a fin, holding a surfboard that is 2' too short for him and missing several cubic inches of float.  He is looking for the rightful owner of this stick so that he can switch back and not drown before he gets to the outside...  The wave of the day went to Austin Nunis, who bicycled into a roping left, made a couple of sections and then launched herself at full speed into the shorebreak blasting about 25 yards before getting rolled in a barrel composed of half-sand, half-water...  Everyone jumped to their feet to see if she had been decapitated, but she popped up looking like a crumb doughnut with a scallop shell smile...

Happy hour will be Friday at Shade Redondo.  5:30pm on the patio...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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