Bigger Than Usual Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

 
Lost Boys & Co...

So we're sitting on the beach this morning with the class and this guy comes up and asks us about getting a wetsuit and maybe a board to ride while he's visiting the United States.  At first we're sure he's a Brazilian, but there was something too familiar about his accent.  He introduces himself as Hugo and we asked him where he was from.  He said "Portugal, but really some islands far off the coast."  "You mean like the Azores?" we ask.  Turns out he's from the island of our forefathers, Terceira and he lives in Port Martins, the town where our great-grandmother was from.  You've got to be kidding...  "So why are you here?"  He says he's in California for the WSL Big Wave Awards and he's a finalist for the biggest wave ridden this year...  So this isn't just any Hugo, but Hugo Vau!  His name is regularly mentioned with guys like Garrett MacNamara and Laird Hamilton as big wave chargers.  He tows in and he's also gotten some big ones paddling in...  It was an honor to meet him and he was the nicest guy you could ever imagine...  Our only hope is that he doesn't want us to go surfing with him, the whole tow-in thing might tarnish our image...  Yeah, right...  Check out the pics!

Partly cloudy this morning with 10 miles visibility.  Winds wee off by 5.4kts and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temperature was 56.3 and the water has dropped a bit from the wind to 57.4.  High tide was at 10:07am +4.8' and low tide is at 3:46pm +0.5'.  We have a west swell out of 265º at 5.2' and it was 5' to 7' on the rising tide.  Supposed to be windy tomorrow, but we might have a break in the morning.  Check it out...

Happy hour at Shade Redondo this Friday at 5:30 on the patio.  Supposed to be windy, so wear something appropriate... or not...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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