Not Twins But Could'a Been Thursday Surf & Culture Report

 
Lost Boys & Co...

Our first couple features Sonny Vardeman sharing some old surf stories with the Professor at Sonny's 80th birthday party.  In a spate of shameless hero worship the Professor sat down with Sonny and cajoled him into telling some stories about the early trips to Hawaii that he and his buddies made in the mid-fifties.  Sonny, Mike "Bones" Bright, Bing Copeland, Rick Stoner and Steve Voorhees were some of the first mainlanders to surf big waves at Makaha and Sunset Beach.  You always hear about Greg Noll and his crew during the early 60's but Sonny and his friends made the first inroads a full 5 years earlier!  He knew all the Hawaiian notables at that time including George Downing and Buffalo Keaulana.  One of the stories he shared was about going out at Sunset Beach the first time and imagining it was 6 to 8 feet.  It was so far out that when the got out to the line up they realized it was more like 20 feet!  When you consider the equipment they were riding, it was no mean feat to get your ass down a wave like that...  Happy Birthday Sonny!

Overcast this morning with about 5 miles visibility.  Winds were light onshore by 4.7kts and the sea surface sported a light chop.  The air temp was 57.4 and the water is 59.4.  High tide was at 6:44am +4.9' and low tide follows at 1:31pm -0.4'.  We have a building WSW swell out of 255º at 3.0'.  It was a high tide diminished 2' to 3' and is getting better with the receding tide and increasing swell.  Check it in the morning...

Kaden and Kona Russi, came into Brother's a few days ago and shared some of their island aloha with the crew.  The are the sons of noted surf photographer Jim Russi and they are two of the nicest people you'd ever want to meet.  They allowed they would have gone out with us on Wednesday, but they had to get on a plane to get back to Hawaii!  Next time guys!
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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