A Grande Fromáge Friday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

Busy out there this morning as the RUHS squad (#1) prepped for next week's contest against La Mira Costa.  In a brilliant moment of coaching expertise and uncommon sense, Coach Duncan Avery summoned his top surfers over the last three to four years and had them compete against our varsity team.  The results were both revealing and spectacular.  You can tell the alumni were in fine form as they joked on the beach before hitting the surf.  Here we have Tate Curran and Kyle Beatty (#2) describing how intimidating Sapphire was back in the day.  Mainly, not the surf, but the old guard who had no notion of letting the young Turks bang on the door...

It was gray and the water had quite a significant texture as the wind was light but consistent out of the west at 3 to 5kts.  The air temp was 58.3º, but felt cooler in the gray and the water was actually warmer at 63.7º.  High tide was at 7:38am +4.3' and low tide followed at 1:43pm +0.4'.  There was a temperamental SSW swell out of 198º at 2.6' and it was 3' and if you were lucky you could score some odd ones out of the office and in to the flats...

Ladies and gentlemen, our alumni!  L. to R.  Tate Curran (currently in the top 48 pole vaulters in the US.  If you don't think that's an accomplishment, when's the last time you cleared 17 feet pole vaulting?)  Kyle Beatty (Surfing anywhere there's a slab including Puerto Escondido, Mavericks and Burnout.  So where did he torque his ankle?  Yep, Burnout.  He also admitted being scared shitless at Mavericks, but caught a macker in and showed everyone what he could do in heavy water.)  Carlos Price-Gracida, also a Puerto ripper.  Just got back from Mexico and some heavy water there.  Ben Oien, who won the contest today for the alums.  Surfing at a really top level of proficiency, he showed the squad what powerful surfing can look like.  And last but not least, Matt Pogue, who can change the direction of a contest with one wave.  They did us a great honor of showing our current surfers what could be done with the proper skill and commitment...  Thinking it was as much fun for them as it was for the team!
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





Popular posts from this blog

Duke Of Wellington Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... P rofessor, This is a shot taken last week at a secret spot that is less than 30 miles away from you guys. Any guesses?  My buddy Dave sent it from Salta Verde Point on the backside of Catalina. Only accessible by boat or if you know someone with the key. Tip: The guy in the pic is the guy with the key! Sea Wolf... S o, apparently if you decide to leave Avalon and head to the backside you might score on a south swell.  For some reason this place looks like there might be some rocks on the inside.  No indications of that other than the boils following the guy with the key... C loudless skies this morning with 20+miles visibility.  Winds were off to 2.2kts and the sea surface had a residual bump that held all day.  The air temperature was 79.3˚ and the water was 66.4˚, apparently affected by the wind and upwelling.  High tide was at 6:55am +3.9' and low tide will be at 11:46am +2.8' for a little less than a foot differential.  There's a SW swell out of
Read more

Wasting Away In Margariitaville Saturday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... S ancho, on this morning's Sruf Familia thread said it best, "Somber rainy day for Jimmy."  J immy Buffett died Friday, September 1.  He was 76 years old and had recently been struggling with health issues.  A Lost Boy of the first order his music was the sound-track for our lives. B ut he might have said it best: "But there's one particular harbor/ So far yet so near/ Where I see the days as they fade away/ And finally disappear." S ail on Jimmy Buffett and we hope on the corner of that one particular harbor there's a wave that you can surf through eternity.  Aloha Jimmy... ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!
Read more

Not Forest Hills Friday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... W ho's behind those Foster-Grants?  Well, we'll bet that he's NEVER worn a pair of F-G's.  Are those Oliver People's?  Cartier's, Garrett Leight's?  We'll say Tom Ford's and he should be their poster boy.  Yep, it's Jetski in the arena at the US Open.  Looking rather trim in his court-side togs, we're waiting for his description of the action... W e continue our assault on some of the smallest waves ever ridden!  We'll have to check the Guinness book, but we think we're on to something.  So it was ten miles visibility under partly cloudy skies and winds were offshore by 5 to 7kts.  The3 air temp was 63.9º and the water was 70.7º at the ever popular #46221 Santa Monica Buoy.  High tide was at 11:01am +5.5' and low tide follows at 4:52pm +0.7'.  It turns out we observed that low tide and even with the afternoon south wind howling around 10kts, Sapphire still looked fairly smooth.  We had a south swell out o
Read more