What's The Point Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

Here we have a couple of shots of The Professor and Tyrone James pointing out some fine surf spots on the Portagee Coast.  Number 1. is Baleal at Peniche, after the Professor had a morning go out.  The afternoon before had been about head high with some soft rights and tight lefts.  This morning it had come up about a foot and the rights were a long drop across a bit of bounce from the inside boil.  At one point the Professor was just getting up when he hit the chop and got launched face first, with his arms neatly under him and nostrils dilated to "flare."  It was like a fire-hose in the face.  His left eye is still rotating...  

All things considered, standing on this point of land looked like the end of the world.  TJ, of course, was confident that the New World was out there - he had been there yesterday - but now he was checking the surf at Sagres and watching the swell get bigger as we motored around the point toward the north facing coast from the south facing Algarve.  When we did get to the corner, the swell was wild and windy.  Oddly enough, as cold as it looked, the water was 66° along the west side and close to 70° on the Algarve side.  In this pic, TJ isn't pointing toward America, but at those dots down there surfing "Tonnels."

We are in Boise, Idaho today, but at takeoff yesterday (after spending almost an entire 12 hours in R.B.) we went right over Malibu and it was 3' to 4' and looking pretty good.  The SoBay, is a bit smaller, but the buoy is looking promising at 3.9' out of the SSW.  The shocker is the water is 52.7°!  What's that about???
 
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!

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