If You Value Your Snout, Don't Go Out Monday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

Oh my, where do we start...?  Maybe first thing in the morning with the Redondo Team (#1) charging on some 3' to 4' grinders.  A beautiful morning with 10 miles visibility and 3 to 5kt offshore winds, making for a smooth sea surface.  But 45 minutes later the fog rolled in (#2) and you could barely see the end of the pier!  The air temperature was 57.3º and the water is a Fall tainted 65.1º.  Low tide made things pretty hollow at 6:23am +2.8' and high tide isn't until 1:03pm +5.7'.  Things started out with a SSW swell out of 195º at 3.9' and 3' to 4' crunchers, but just kept creeping up until it was head-high and throwing some serious water around. It's supposed to be bigger mañana.  That brings us to Part II of our story...

Here (#3) we have the former and current Welterweight Champion of the over 70 Division, DOC ?! There are several stories here, but we are going to stick to the tale which most closely resembles the truth, if that is remotely possible.  Doc spotted CVS and Capitán Donaldo, down near Tenth St. catching some bombers unloading on that left.  But, there were also some odd rights coming through and Doc set his sights on this jacking slab coming in with a tad of north in it.  An absolutely great drop, he was rocketing on the top third all the way to the tower.  A great ride, he ended up on the inside between the left and right where there's usually a rip.  But nay-nay.  He found himself in the middle with 4' of whitewater heading toward him and he tried to duck dive.  And a fine duck it was, but he's got that little fatty of a short board and it jumped back up and smacked him in the kisser.  Broke his face!  For sure his nose, maybe the orbit of his eye socket and concussed him into an extreme state of docility.  But the boy was game!  They put him back together with crazy glue and latex and he says he's ready to eat paella.

TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:  DON'T FUCK WITH BACALLAO! (any of them)  That's all we'll say about that...

Famous for flash mobs, beach clean-ups and team building seminars (#4) Hermosa was the site of this random group milling about between the pier and 10th St. on Saturday morning.  No rhyme.  No reason.
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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