Alpha & Omega Friday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

The Alpha this morning was LaNoodle Bay (#1 courtesy: Burnsy Worldwide) where some mackers were pouring through.  This wave was a solid 15 to 18' and this guy was cruising to some deep water on the corner.  The rip going out in the middle of the bay was roughly the size of the Mississippi River at Vicksburg.  In practice it was just as hard to come in as it was to go out, almost...  Note the R-10 Buoy in the top left of the pic...

Another big day in the bull ring.  A sunny morning winds were offshore by 3 to 5kts and the sea surface had a roll to match the size of the swell.  The morning dawned cool at 45.0º and ironically the water was 59.5º and was 60º by mid-afternoon.  High tide was at 8:08am +6.0' and low tide followed at 3:34pm -0.8'.  There was a west swell out of 261º at 9.8' and it was pouring through most spots at 9' to 15'.  Supposed to calm down a bit over the next few days and then ramp up again mid-week.  Tomorrow we'll try to send some pics of the spectacular waves and the attending carnage...

The Omega might have been Zack Siegel (#2) riding hard all morning and scoring some of the standout waves at Topaz.  He got caught paddling back out, had to duck dive early to avoid a barney and got sucked over the falls on top of his board.  He nailed it almost dead-center and came up with two pieces.  An amusing side-bar:  Doc Scale used that board for several seasons and couldn't believe that Zack had cracked it...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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