Have Mercy Monday Surf & Culture Report
Lost Boys & Co...
Buffalo Kevin Holmes at Sapphire. 11'6" and he uses every inch... Like when he dances on the nose. Sunday, December 12th - photo credit: Sting Ginther.
A beautiful summer December day with unlimited visibility. Nary a cloud in the sky and winds offshore at 6.3kts. The sea surface is glassy. The air temperature is a warmish 58.9°, going up to the mid-70's. The water temperature is 57.7° and feels exactly like it. Low tide is at 9:58am +2.4' and high tide will be at 2:48pm +3.2'. The buoy is reading a SW swell out of 215° at 2.6'. We're calling it 1' to 3' but a bit wally and not quite deluxe. Watch the tides for things to peak just right...
The way we remember it is that Big Wave Dave found the fuse. We just said, "Hey let's light it and see where it goes." Actually there were a lot of good things that happened. We got patted down and they didn't find anything (except Dave's matches,) we got to ride in a police car, we made it back to the after party before it was over and we each got a big piece of King's Hawaiian Cake! Oh yeah, the cops were happy because it cut the show short by 20 minutes...
In the October issue of Surfer magazine they ran this article by Brad Melekian on how to "...be a good surfer." We thought we'd run a few lines for the next week or so and share some of his insights. Kinda sounds a bit like Kahlil Gibran or Kellogg Allbran, but nice all the same...
Pay attention. A good surfer pays attention. Small children, newcomers, and people wearing denim sprint unknowingly into the surf. A good surfer pays attention. Don't operate by guesswork. Check the surf. Know where the waves will be breaking, where they will not be breaking, where you'll catch the waves before you ever become wet, then paddle out.
Surf cameras, surf apps on your phone (cell phones in general,) websites, blogs: If you must. But check the surf. Everyday. In person. Surfing is a practice, and it is to be treated as such.
Take care of you equipment. Fix your dings. Change your wax. Learn what works for you, and learn how to ride it. Learn when to ride it. Know how you want to ride a wave before you do it, and choose your board accordingly.
Think. About your waves, about your boards, about your place in the lineup. A good surfer thinks.
If you're not a kid, let the kids be. Kids are shitheads many times, but they are kids, so don't get mad at them for being kids.
To that end, a good surfer is a good steward. Of the break. Of the spot.
Shut up. Realize that there's not a whole lot to say. Yes, the weather's fine, and yes, the waves are good, and yes, we all hope the wind stays off of it, and yes, it's really crowded. We all get it. So let it be. A good surfer shuts up...
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
Buffalo Kevin Holmes at Sapphire. 11'6" and he uses every inch... Like when he dances on the nose. Sunday, December 12th - photo credit: Sting Ginther.
A beautiful summer December day with unlimited visibility. Nary a cloud in the sky and winds offshore at 6.3kts. The sea surface is glassy. The air temperature is a warmish 58.9°, going up to the mid-70's. The water temperature is 57.7° and feels exactly like it. Low tide is at 9:58am +2.4' and high tide will be at 2:48pm +3.2'. The buoy is reading a SW swell out of 215° at 2.6'. We're calling it 1' to 3' but a bit wally and not quite deluxe. Watch the tides for things to peak just right...
The way we remember it is that Big Wave Dave found the fuse. We just said, "Hey let's light it and see where it goes." Actually there were a lot of good things that happened. We got patted down and they didn't find anything (except Dave's matches,) we got to ride in a police car, we made it back to the after party before it was over and we each got a big piece of King's Hawaiian Cake! Oh yeah, the cops were happy because it cut the show short by 20 minutes...
In the October issue of Surfer magazine they ran this article by Brad Melekian on how to "...be a good surfer." We thought we'd run a few lines for the next week or so and share some of his insights. Kinda sounds a bit like Kahlil Gibran or Kellogg Allbran, but nice all the same...
Pay attention. A good surfer pays attention. Small children, newcomers, and people wearing denim sprint unknowingly into the surf. A good surfer pays attention. Don't operate by guesswork. Check the surf. Know where the waves will be breaking, where they will not be breaking, where you'll catch the waves before you ever become wet, then paddle out.
Surf cameras, surf apps on your phone (cell phones in general,) websites, blogs: If you must. But check the surf. Everyday. In person. Surfing is a practice, and it is to be treated as such.
Take care of you equipment. Fix your dings. Change your wax. Learn what works for you, and learn how to ride it. Learn when to ride it. Know how you want to ride a wave before you do it, and choose your board accordingly.
Think. About your waves, about your boards, about your place in the lineup. A good surfer thinks.
If you're not a kid, let the kids be. Kids are shitheads many times, but they are kids, so don't get mad at them for being kids.
To that end, a good surfer is a good steward. Of the break. Of the spot.
Shut up. Realize that there's not a whole lot to say. Yes, the weather's fine, and yes, the waves are good, and yes, we all hope the wind stays off of it, and yes, it's really crowded. We all get it. So let it be. A good surfer shuts up...
The Professor!!
