Kinda Late Tuesday Surf & Culture Report
Another couple of shots from Sting Ginther. #1 is Sandy the Queen of Sapphire sneaking through this little peeler, stretching it much further than you might have thought possible. Then there's One-Nut Mike, well positioned to make this little drop and set up fast enough to flip through the tube and keep his hairs dry.
Yeah, those pics were from Sunday when it was nice and sunny. This morning things were gray and overcast and visibility was maybe 5 miles. Winds were offshore at checkout by a roaring 1kt and the sea surface was glassy. The air temperature was 51.0° and t he water was 57.9°. Low tide was at 11:11am +1.9' and high tide was at 4:32pm +3.0'. The buoy was teasing us this morning with a south south west swell out of 193° at 3.0'. All we got was about 2' of that and not very deluxe for what it was worth...
Notes on being a good surfer:
Who the f&$# is Brad Melekian??? Maybe he's the one that should shut up. Geez!
(P.S. - sorry.....I'm in a really bad mood)
Tyrone James
Wendy's version:
Pay attention. A good man pays attention. Small children, newcomers, and people wearing denim sprint unknowingly into your life. A good man pays attention. Don't operate by guesswork. Check it out. Know where you should be, where you should not be, when you'll catch shit before you even think about it, then act.
Use cameras, apps on your phone (cell phones in general,) websites, blogs: If you must. But check it out. Everyday. In person. Being a man is a practice, and it is to be treated as such.
Take care of you equipment. Fix your hygiene. Change your underwear. Learn what works for you, and learn how to ride it. Learn when to ride it. Know how you want to ride it before you do it, and choose accordingly.
Think. About your family, about your priorities, about your place in life. A good man thinks.
If you're not a kid, let the kids be. Kids are shitheads many times, but they are kids, so don't get mad at them for being kids.
To that end, a good man is a good steward of his family, of his friends, of his soul.
Shut up. Realize that there's not a whole lot to say. Yes, she's right, and yes, life is good, and yes, life is too short to argue about it. We all get it. So let it be. A good man shuts up...
Danger Girl
(As usual we forgot the part about changing our underwear. We've made a note... Ed.)
Well, that being the case let's try a few more lines...
...Be A Good Surfer by Brad Melekian
"Let a few go. As much for yourself as for the rest of the people who eventually catch them. Duke said it first: Wave come, wave go." The sooner you learn that, the better off you'll be. Oh, and this: There'll always be a better wave. Than the one you just missed, the one you just rode, whatever. There'll be a better wave. The sooner you learn this, the better off you'll be.
Finally, if you ever get caught in Provo, Utah and need a bit of El Salvadorian grub - this is THE place.
The Professor!!
