Magnanimous Monday Surf & Culture Report
Lost Boys & Co...
Well, did you get everything you wanted? Okay, did you get something you wanted? Wait, did you get anything? We got two three-packs of flannel underoos. Damn, they are the best. Straight from Idaho where they have all those merino sheep. Wearing the black ones with the white snow flakes right now!
Sunny and cold this morning! Unlimited visibility, with just a few high clouds in the corners. Winds are offshore at 3.8kts and the sea surface has a slight roll from the blow yesterday. The air is a brisk 47.3°, the water is 57.7° and your skin temp is right around 91° - so if you're feeling a bit chilly, now you know why. Low tide is at 8:20am +1.9' and high tide is at 1:44pm +3.8'. The buoy is reading a WSW swell out of 255° at 4.6'. We're calling it 3' to 5' and there were some nice ones coming through all morning. You had to be in the right place, but hey - you're always in the right place.
Here's our last installment of ...BE A GOOD SURFER by Brad Melekian
..."Always pull in, even if you cannot make it, even if you do not know how to ride the barrel. A good surfer pulls in.
There are women in the lineup. Let them be surfers. They do not want to be hit on when they're going surfing, and they do not find this attractive. They want to go surfing, same as you. Respect this.
That said, if you want to sneak a peek, go for it.
There is a pecking order and it is to be respected. Know where you fit in the lineup and respect this. Wait your turn, because it will come. When it comes, when somebody tells you to go, go. If you don't make this wave, know you will be waiting a lot longer for your next one.
A good surfer knows he doesn't need to fight, but he also knows he doesn't need to move aside for anybody. Respect sure, but not fear.
Paddle out to crowded alpha-spots with the understanding that it will be crowded, that you will not get waves. Expect this, deal with this, participate in this. Do not complain.
On travel: Put in work. Find a spot. Score it. Be quiet. No Tweets, no FaceBook, no pictures, no blogs, no braggadocio. Surfing can teach you how to experience joy and excitement and how to keep that joy and excitement to yourself. Allow it to do so.
Sometimes you mess up. Sometimes you fall. Sometimes you fail. Don't punch the water. Don't scream. Get back on your board, paddle back out.
Always paddle back out.
Surfing is not golf. It is not tennis. It is not to be pursued on the weekends, or in the summer. It is a lifetime commitment. A good surfer knows this.
(We ran this, not because it's exactly our idea of what surfing is about or because it's some fine philosophical tome, but because we thought that it was good that someone decided that there were some seminal thoughts that might be shared about our sport. Most sports don't have any philosophical underpinnings other than scoring. It's good that we're different... Ed.)
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
Well, did you get everything you wanted? Okay, did you get something you wanted? Wait, did you get anything? We got two three-packs of flannel underoos. Damn, they are the best. Straight from Idaho where they have all those merino sheep. Wearing the black ones with the white snow flakes right now!
Sunny and cold this morning! Unlimited visibility, with just a few high clouds in the corners. Winds are offshore at 3.8kts and the sea surface has a slight roll from the blow yesterday. The air is a brisk 47.3°, the water is 57.7° and your skin temp is right around 91° - so if you're feeling a bit chilly, now you know why. Low tide is at 8:20am +1.9' and high tide is at 1:44pm +3.8'. The buoy is reading a WSW swell out of 255° at 4.6'. We're calling it 3' to 5' and there were some nice ones coming through all morning. You had to be in the right place, but hey - you're always in the right place.
Here's our last installment of ...BE A GOOD SURFER by Brad Melekian
..."Always pull in, even if you cannot make it, even if you do not know how to ride the barrel. A good surfer pulls in.
There are women in the lineup. Let them be surfers. They do not want to be hit on when they're going surfing, and they do not find this attractive. They want to go surfing, same as you. Respect this.
That said, if you want to sneak a peek, go for it.
There is a pecking order and it is to be respected. Know where you fit in the lineup and respect this. Wait your turn, because it will come. When it comes, when somebody tells you to go, go. If you don't make this wave, know you will be waiting a lot longer for your next one.
A good surfer knows he doesn't need to fight, but he also knows he doesn't need to move aside for anybody. Respect sure, but not fear.
Paddle out to crowded alpha-spots with the understanding that it will be crowded, that you will not get waves. Expect this, deal with this, participate in this. Do not complain.
On travel: Put in work. Find a spot. Score it. Be quiet. No Tweets, no FaceBook, no pictures, no blogs, no braggadocio. Surfing can teach you how to experience joy and excitement and how to keep that joy and excitement to yourself. Allow it to do so.
Sometimes you mess up. Sometimes you fall. Sometimes you fail. Don't punch the water. Don't scream. Get back on your board, paddle back out.
Always paddle back out.
Surfing is not golf. It is not tennis. It is not to be pursued on the weekends, or in the summer. It is a lifetime commitment. A good surfer knows this.
(We ran this, not because it's exactly our idea of what surfing is about or because it's some fine philosophical tome, but because we thought that it was good that someone decided that there were some seminal thoughts that might be shared about our sport. Most sports don't have any philosophical underpinnings other than scoring. It's good that we're different... Ed.)
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
