Misadventure Monday Surf & Culture Report
Lost Boys & Co...
Danger Boy. How can we say anything we haven't said before? We could say it backwards!
Actually, he called around one and he still hadn't gotten sewn up! He went to the emergency room and probably got a bunch of stitches. His eyebrow will never be the same. He flagged the lifeguard down and the guard staunched the bleeding and put on a much too small band-aid. His loose board came bounding at him on the wave behind the one he caught and cracked him right above the right eye. He caught his third wave and it was another pretty nice right and he just jumped off at the end - like ya' do. Danger Boy and the Professor, just surfin' a beautiful winter's day...
(We have included for your viewing pleasure and for those who tend toward the squeamish, a photo of Danger Boy with his right eyebrow intact. Currently, the eyebrow can be found in two distinct locations, north and south of their former coordinates... Ed.)
Meanwhile, there were some good waves as the dawn rose crisp and new. 25 miles visibility and mostly clear skies, with a few wispy mare's tails up high. Winds were offshore by 2.3kts and the sea surface was smooth. The air temperature was 48.4° and the water was 59.0°. High tide was at 9:31am +6.5' and low tide is a minus at 4:41pm -1.2'. The buoy has a west swell out of 265° at 2.3', but it looked better to us at around 3' and some nice makeable wally things.
Photo #2. You think Christmas is over and then you walk in somewhere and he's there... still watching... keeping track... damn...
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(We have included for your viewing pleasure and for those who tend toward the squeamish, a photo of Danger Boy with his right eyebrow intact. Currently, the eyebrow can be found in two distinct locations, north and south of their former coordinates... Ed.)
Meanwhile, there were some good waves as the dawn rose crisp and new. 25 miles visibility and mostly clear skies, with a few wispy mare's tails up high. Winds were offshore by 2.3kts and the sea surface was smooth. The air temperature was 48.4° and the water was 59.0°. High tide was at 9:31am +6.5' and low tide is a minus at 4:41pm -1.2'. The buoy has a west swell out of 265° at 2.3', but it looked better to us at around 3' and some nice makeable wally things.
Photo #2. You think Christmas is over and then you walk in somewhere and he's there... still watching... keeping track... damn...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
The Professor!!
The Professor!!
