Wrong Turn Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

It was Christmas Day and Randy Ruby was out getting some sunset shots.  If you're not familiar with Randy's work, they have some cards on sale in Card-d'-A in the village.  Randy took up photography relatively recently and has built up a rather respectable body of work.  He's taken some fantastic nature shots as we as photos of all of the hot young local surfers.  Part of the reason he gets so many great photos is that he's out there everyday paying his dues...  like even on Christmas!

Another day featuring cloudless skies and almost unlimited visibility.  Winds were offshore by 4.2kts and the sea surface was smooth to glassy.  The air temperature at checkout was 47.3° and the water was 58.5°.  Low tide starts out the morning early at 5:02am +2.2' and high tide fills in at 10:57am +5.3'.  The 46221 Buoy tells us that we have a west swell out of 269° at 3.6'.  We're calling it 3' to 4' and poor to good shape...  Check it out when the tide drops...

Danger Boy Update:
We failed to report on the number of stitches it took to close DB's wound.  It took 14.  3 on the inside to keep his eyebrow from falling into his eye and 11 on the outside to join the eyebrow and the close gaping crevasse.  

Nicknames:
There is no doubt that nicknames have evolved over time.  For the record Boomfwappa was "Chameaux," SeaWolf was "Al Bundy" and Rip didn't even have a nickname until he got swept out to sea at the Ranch without his leash and Easky had to render assistance.  Our opinion is that if you have a halfway decent nick, you shouldn't tempt fate.  We recall that Uncle Stinky, Weird Jeff and No Pants Lance weren't popular.  In fact Weird Jeff protested rather pointedly that he didn't like his nickname.  When we suggested "W.J." he asked what it stood for.  When we said, "Weird Jeff," he stopped surfing with us (or maybe altogether?)  Even if you have a nickname to begin with, there's no guarantee that it will stick.  As Tyrone James...

Whether you liked him for his work in predicting the surf or hated him for making it available to the world and crowding your favorite break, you have to agree that Sean Collins had a huge impact on surfing.  He passed away on Monday after suffering a heart attack while playing tennis.  He was 59.  We'd often consult his prognostications and decide whether it was a work or surf day.  For that alone he is worth a tip of the hat...

Photo #2.  Christmas afternoon in So. Cal.
✠
 
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!

Popular posts from this blog

Duke Of Wellington Wednesday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... P rofessor, This is a shot taken last week at a secret spot that is less than 30 miles away from you guys. Any guesses?  My buddy Dave sent it from Salta Verde Point on the backside of Catalina. Only accessible by boat or if you know someone with the key. Tip: The guy in the pic is the guy with the key! Sea Wolf... S o, apparently if you decide to leave Avalon and head to the backside you might score on a south swell.  For some reason this place looks like there might be some rocks on the inside.  No indications of that other than the boils following the guy with the key... C loudless skies this morning with 20+miles visibility.  Winds were off to 2.2kts and the sea surface had a residual bump that held all day.  The air temperature was 79.3˚ and the water was 66.4˚, apparently affected by the wind and upwelling.  High tide was at 6:55am +3.9' and low tide will be at 11:46am +2.8' for a little less than a foot differential.  There's a SW swell out of
Read more

Wasting Away In Margariitaville Saturday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... S ancho, on this morning's Sruf Familia thread said it best, "Somber rainy day for Jimmy."  J immy Buffett died Friday, September 1.  He was 76 years old and had recently been struggling with health issues.  A Lost Boy of the first order his music was the sound-track for our lives. B ut he might have said it best: "But there's one particular harbor/ So far yet so near/ Where I see the days as they fade away/ And finally disappear." S ail on Jimmy Buffett and we hope on the corner of that one particular harbor there's a wave that you can surf through eternity.  Aloha Jimmy... ✠ "When the surf breaks, we'll fix it" The Professor!!
Read more

Not Forest Hills Friday Surf & Culture Report

Image
Lost Boys & Co... W ho's behind those Foster-Grants?  Well, we'll bet that he's NEVER worn a pair of F-G's.  Are those Oliver People's?  Cartier's, Garrett Leight's?  We'll say Tom Ford's and he should be their poster boy.  Yep, it's Jetski in the arena at the US Open.  Looking rather trim in his court-side togs, we're waiting for his description of the action... W e continue our assault on some of the smallest waves ever ridden!  We'll have to check the Guinness book, but we think we're on to something.  So it was ten miles visibility under partly cloudy skies and winds were offshore by 5 to 7kts.  The3 air temp was 63.9º and the water was 70.7º at the ever popular #46221 Santa Monica Buoy.  High tide was at 11:01am +5.5' and low tide follows at 4:52pm +0.7'.  It turns out we observed that low tide and even with the afternoon south wind howling around 10kts, Sapphire still looked fairly smooth.  We had a south swell out o
Read more