The Odd Sunday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

#1.  José leaving the point at a high rate of speed...  By the time the photographer got to the point, José decided he had business down the beach...

A beautiful late summer day in the southland!  A calm morning with smooth seas and 15 miles visibility. The air was an even 82˚ and the water was a sweet 70.9˚ at the buoy and a couple of degrees warmer in the surfline.  Low tide was at 7:16am 2.3' and high tide followed at 1:45pm 5.2'.  It was a 3.6' swell out of 255˚ west and it was 2' to 3' at most spots...

#2.  But back in Cardón it was better than that and the Professor crouches down to make it look a little bigger.  Actually, it looks bigger when you're on those waves, then you get the pics and you go, "Oh wow, nice little wave there..." 

#3.  Wheatley on a really clean wave quite a way down the beach.  After you get through the takeoff, there's the race track portion and then it gets down to this Malibu-mirror section that goes on for a hundred yards.  If you don't mind the paddle/walk back, you can work this until your calves ache...
 ✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!

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