Motorcycle Monday Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

We're going to dedicate this weeks Surf & Culture Reports to Danger Boy.  Obviously, we have a ton of images of him and in a significant number he is bleeding or contused.  Yeah, well...  So, lets start there and clean up his act as we move along...

#1.  There was the day when we headed down to the Cove with Gidget and Alec.  Imagine the long walk down and the trail was bit snotty in some places.  We paddled out to Little Reef, Danger Boy caught the first wave, went to the bottom and came up with three eyebrows and covered in blood.  We walked back up the trail, took off our wetsuits and deposited him at Redondo Medical on the way home...

#2.  New Year's Eve and DB is in full rubber including booties, gloves and a hood.  The only skin that was showing was three-quarters of his face.  He took off on a 10th St. ledge and disappeared.  We waited... and waited... and when he finally came up his face was crimson.  Roddy Williams was in his truck, doing his morning beach check and bandaged him up until he could go get the requisite stitches. 

Windy today, blowing all the clouds and rain out off the beach.  Howling from the NW at 14kts and gusting to almost 20 the ocean was rough and choppy.  The air temperature was 45º and the water was 64.0º.  High tide was at 10:09am +5.8' and low tide was at 5:29pm -0.5'.  We have a west swell out of 265º at 7.9' and the surf was in the 6' to 8' range.  We're hoping things will calm down tomorrow...

#3.  Danger Boy and his favorite emergency room Doc.  The conversation went like this:  "Yes, Doctor, this is Douglas Ball.  Yes, l think it was you who  stitched me up last month.  Well, I need a few more stitches.  No, I don't know exactly what happened, but my surfboard hit me in the head.  Yeah, I'm on my way..."

#4.  He was always smiling even though we were trying to show off his wounds to maximum effect.  This is a pic from when we asked him to give us a hockey sneer...

#5.  Speaking of hockey...  He kidded that this incision looked like a hockey stick.  By this point he had pretty much lost count of how many stitches he had had over his career, but this one upped the number significantly...  Still smiling though...
 ✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!

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