All Thenar Thursday Surf & Culture Report


Lost Boys & Co...

We were almost to the bottom when the Professor remembered he wanted a photo of the stairway...  He says, "You climb up these things in the dark, but when you start to go down you realize you're 200+ feet up and these "stairs" are really rickety.  Everyone gets a little annoyed when you start to make it shake, because you can imagine the whole thing toppling down or cracking through the first step and heading the rest of the way down like some Laurel and Hardy movie.  You start stepping really lightly..."

We're going to tell you all the stats, but first remember it's flat...  15 miles visibility under mostly cloudy skies.  Gray but not dark... yet.  Winds were offshore, out of the east at checkout by 5.6kts.  The air temp was 54.2° and the water has finally dropped below 60° to a bracing 59.9°.  We don't know how the Irish and the down East guys do it??  High tide at 7:58am +6.0' and low tide follows at 3:03pm -0.2'.  There is almost no swell out of the SSW 205°, although the buoy calls it 1.6', we say it's flat.  Meanwhile, the weather guys are predicting a bit of rain for Friday evening and Saturday, but the surf guys are trying to tell us that we're going to get some big waves.  Why?  Apparently, there were some big waves in the north and if this thing doesn't come to shore, it might sit and spin for a while.  It's still really north, but we did notice that they built up a huge berm in front of the Hermosa Lifeguard Headquarters.  Do they know something??

Check out this link from Tyrone James...
  http://www.gmanews.tv/story/238036/new-world-surfing-record-made-on-90-ft-wave 
Frank,
You may be surprised, as I was, to find that the surfer who surfed this 90 foot wave, yes you heard me right, did so in Portugal.  Check out this link. 
TJ  (All those waves they claim to be the biggest wave ever look pretty darned scary to us...  Ed.)

Photo #2, features the crew at El Tunco, Memé, Ché, LoLa, Melissa and Mark (No, he never smiles for pictures...  Ed.)

Speaking of never smiling, #3 is a shot (and we use that term cautiously) of Larry, the Alcaldé's bodyguard.  Larry isn't his real name.  It's really Lorenzo, but we told him it was Larry in English.  He liked that.  Alcaldé is loosely translated as mayor, but in El Salvador, he's responsible for a much larger area than just a city.  He needs a bodyguard because the former alcaldé's term, life and limb were vitiated by some unsavory element.  Actually, the element was lead, so hence the bodyguards.  We asked Larry "¿Qué piensa usted de la AK-47 como una arma fundamental? ("What do you think of the AK-47 as a basic weapon?")  You wanna light up a conversation?  Ask a bodyguard about his weapon!  He was talking so fast we could barely understand him, although we did catch phrases like, "easy to group your shots..."  "fires rapidly and accurately..."  "uses big bullets..."  "makes big holes..." "easy to reload..." and "makes a lot of noise to get everyone's attention..."   So we were surprised when later in the evening LoLa came over, a little breathless and said, "I was walking over near the jukebox and I saw the bodyguards leaning over trying to decide on which song to play next.  I thought it was a good picture, them with their guns strapped over their backs, while pondering the selection, so I took a photo...  When the flash went off they both whirled around and grabbed their guns!  I thought they were going to mow me down!"  She threw her hands up in the air and started chanting, "Pictures, pictures, pictures, I was taking pictures!"  When taking photographs always consider the firepower of your subjects and how much English do they understand.  Lesson learned...  #4 What LoLa thought might be her last shot at photography.

"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!

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