There's A Hole In The World Surf & Culture Report

Lost Boys & Co...

NO, in this photo (#1) it doesn't look that big.  But we're here to tell you there were some big ones on the outside and if you weren't careful, you might get pile-driven through your board like Jack Langdon did (#2.)  We're saying it had to be about an 8' face and he didn't flinch.  He made the drop, pig-dogged the turn and then stood up in the yawning gap as it turned inside out.  He looked to be standing pretty straight up and down and almost in the middle when he got nailed.  Are there warranties on Flower Surfboards?

Cloudy and 5 miles visibility with drizzlations early, tapering off throughout the morning.  Winds were calm and the sea surface was smooth.  The air temperature was 55.1º and the water is holding at 60.3º.  High tide was at 6:07am +6.1' and low tide was LOW at 1:20pm -0.7'.  We have a west swell out of 234º at 4.6', but it was 4' to 6' and obviously bigger for Jack Langdon...  And by the way Redondo beat El Segundo 112 to 38.  Some exciting prep action in the water this morning..!

Happy hour is on for Friday at Samba, joining Mark and his retinue of exotic dancers.  5:30pm.  Best Martini in the South Bay...
 ✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it..."
 The Professor!!

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