Endles Summer Monday Surf & Culture Report

 
Lost Boys & Co...

Bruce Brown has passed away.  There's something ironic about the man who brought us the "Endless Summer" passing away in the middle of winter...  It must have been in 1965 that my brother and I went to Pier Avenue Junior High School auditorium and watched Bruce himself narrate a 16mm copy of his film.  I don't even know if there was a poster yet.  If there was, we would have grabbed as many as we could from the telephone poles around town.  We had seen other Bruce Brown films like "Slippery When Wet" and "Barefoot Adventure", but "Endless Summer" was something else entirely.  It didn't just show surfing, but the notion of travel and discovery, not to mention the idea we all had about following summer around the globe.  I'll never forget the time we walked into Jacobs Surfboards and Jim Campbell saw Robert August behind the counter.  He was so flummoxed by coming face-to-face with this surf star from the "Endless Summer" that he ran outside and had to calm down before he went back in.  Maybe Bruce didn't start it all, but he sure gave us a look at what surfing could be.  No matter where he's gone, you know it'll be an "Endless Summer" there...

So there's hazy sun and almost 10 miles visibility.  Winds are variable out of the east by 1 to 3kts and the sea surface is smooth to glassy.  The air temperature at checkout was 55.6 and the water is 62.4.  Low tide is at 11:04am +1.6' and high tide will be at 4:37pm +3.9'.  We have a SW swell out of 215º at 3.0' and it was a wally-crashy 3' to 4' and not particularly longboard friendly.  Now yesterday under similar conditions, Jetski showed the local savages how surfing in less than perfect conditions can be a rewarding experience.  He was catching everything in sight and making it look good.  He took off on a two-paddle late takeoff, grabbed the rail and skated through an absolutely round section that deposited him dry on the inside...  Mucho bueño!

Whether it's a classic surf film or a new blade, the stoke is always there.  (#3) Morgan Sliff, speechless, as she checks out her new ride before applying her signature seagulls to the deck...

It has come to light that Capitan Donaldo got his new board about a week ago.  This coincides with the lack of good surf over the same period of time.  So if you were wondering, "Yes, it's his fault there are no waves."

Currently checking on happy hour destinations.  Lots of holiday parties so we're trying to find a spot that has room...

Finally, our own South Bay "Endless Summer" sunset taken by Bama Burke from her perch high atop Burke's Beach...
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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