Thermolabile Thursday Surf & Culture Report



Lost Boys & Co...

The swell has gone down a foot or so, but these little wedges kept coming through the office (#1).  It was mainly cloudless and warmed up quickly, 59º in the air and 57.7º at the buoy.  Still a trace of algae in the water although the iodine smell has dissipated a bit.  Low tide was at 5:54am -1.3' and high tide followed at 12:22pm +3.8'.  We have a SSW swell out of 199º at 3.3' and it was turning the corner nicely and leaving us with some solid 3 to 4 footers and some nice long lines to build up some speed.  Paddling out yesterday Doc ? suddenly thought his leash had wrapped around his shoulder??  He didn't hear the little fisher woman on the pier yelling that she had a big one on the line.  You guessed it, she had snagged Doc above the right nipple through his wetsuit.  We encouraged him to just bend the hook around and make it a nipple ring, but he felt it would reflect poorly on his professional image...  Like how often does he work without a shirt?  Well, we don't really know...

A little Aloha from Rick Griffin (#2)...

Here's one of those long insides (#3).  You just grab the rail and watch it fold over.  The test is how long you can keep your eyes open...  No squinting...

Tomorrow early at El Porto for Redondo against El Segundo.  We'll be back at Hermosa when the contest is over!
✠
"When the surf breaks, we'll fix it"
The Professor!!





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